| Schultz's Ridge |
 |
| |
Burden of Dreams 5.12a/b PG13
| 574 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Tom Davis and David Rubine |
| Submitted By: | Keith Forest on May 23, 2010 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
| Comments on Burden of Dreams |
|
By Keith Forest May 23, 2010
| Often overlooked 5 pitch, mixed face and crack route (mostly continuous steep slab climbing on the face just right of the Moratorium). Beautiful Climb! |
By Rob Dillon From: '81 Sunrader May 23, 2010
| Wow, I was just looking over at this beauty a couple days ago. Polished golden granite...bolts don't look horribly far apart....got anything more to add on this one? |
By Keith Forest May 25, 2010
| Rob-If you like steep slab it does not get any better. I have been on it and found every pitch unique, hard on fantastic granite. I believe the topo is in the last Yosemite guide. I did find a few sections to be a little stretched out- right at my comfort zone. But nowhere did it seem unsafe to me. There is a pin protecting the 10c crux on the 1st pitch that had me a little worried but it did look sound. I wish a bolt had been placed there instead. |
By J. Albers From: Colorado Feb 23, 2011
| Thanks for posting this Keith. I was looking at this and 'Golden Years' in my Reid guide and was thinking about giving them a go. I do have a question though. What generation are the bolts on this thing? I believe 'Burden' went up in 1990 which means it could have reasonable or sorta sketchy hardware (i.e. is it old school SMC stuff or...) Any info you have would be welcome. Cheers. EDIT: Thanks for the reply Keith!! |
By Keith Forest Jul 9, 2011
| Just got your question J. Albers. Both routes have Metolius Bolt hangers. They also have 3/8 inch, with what look like, expansion bolts - wedge anchor type because they have nuts. I felt very safe with the anchoring. Well thought out belay locations too. |
|
|