Buns Up 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | Daniel S on Mar 10, 2007 |
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This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Left facing slightly overhanging corner directly up from second belay station of the "Water Streak". Steep Lay back moves get you to the lip. Heel hook over the right side of the lip and grab a bomber hold on the left side of lip. Flop yourself over the lip (crux) and continue up to the belay station (trad). Very committing climb with exposure that turns many away. But lots of fun when you've done it.
Location Rout Starts directly above the second belay station of the "Water Streak". Often considered the third pitch of water streak. After belly flopping over the lip, continue up the large crack (5.0 to high 4th class) until you reach a horizontal crack on the right intersecting the vertical crack. Use the horizontal crack to set up Belay (1 to 2.5 inch cams or hexes) or set up sketchy belay just to the right of the belly flop over the lip. From the belay, traverse right along the horizontal crack until it runs out, then fourth class it to the gully. Follow the gully down about 130 feet and look for belay station for the Tree Rout on the wall on the left (when facing down hill) side. Use two ropes to rappel down. Or, from the Buns Up Trad belay station, traverse left (fourth class) to a boulder field-gully and scramble down.
Protection Two large (4 to 6 inch) Cams and a large sling for semi detached boulder just on top. 5 to 7 inch cams if you want to protect the run out to the belay crack up higher. 1 to 2.5 inch cams for belay.
By Brent Butcher
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.9 PG13
| The 5.9 move(over hanging lay back) is protected well with a BD Cam #3 down low and a #4 up a little higher.
- **READ THIS IF YOU WANT TO TOP OUT OF ELK SLABS OUT***
Equipment: 70M rope, .75-2'' Cam and nuts. Anchor: Long Webbing (wrap boulders near top)
After you pull the slightly over hanging lay back it is easy 5.4-5.5 slab to the top with a couple area's for protection. However, if you fall (for some odd reason well past the crux) you will definitely definitely hurt yourself this is why I gave it a RX rating (so don't fall past the crux, or until you have put some pro in a little bit farther up the route ~35-40ft). Stay out of the gulley to the right and climb the slab only!
If you have parked in the sunset parking area you can top out Elk Slabs and find the trail that descends to the parking lot. The trail will be a little challenging to find but keep heading north east and you will stumble across it. Hope this helps. |
By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Dec 19, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| We used a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot (basically a #4 and a #5). Even after pulling the lip, I had trouble finding anywhere to place the #3 I took with me until 25ft past the top of the laybacking section. I wouldn't suggest leading this unless you have a #5 and maybe even a #6. Also note, it's hard to protect the seconding climber on the laybacking if your rope falls into the crack after they clean the gear.
I would suggest taking a #4(x2), #5(x2), maybe a #6, and some #1 and #2 cams for the belay at the horizontal crack 40ft up the slab. |
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