|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 20'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Season:||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By:||Daniel S on Mar 10, 2007|
|Comments on Buns Up||Add Comment|
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By Brent Butcher
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
The 5.9 move(over hanging lay back) is protected well with a BD Cam #3 down low and a #4 up a little higher.
Equipment: 70M rope, .75-2'' Cam and nuts. Anchor: Long Webbing (wrap boulders near top)
After you pull the slightly over hanging lay back it is easy 5.4-5.5 slab to the top with a couple area's for protection. However, if you fall (for some odd reason well past the crux) you will definitely definitely hurt yourself this is why I gave it a RX rating (so don't fall past the crux, or until you have put some pro in a little bit farther up the route ~35-40ft). Stay out of the gulley to the right and climb the slab only!
If you have parked in the sunset parking area you can top out Elk Slabs and find the trail that descends to the parking lot. The trail will be a little challenging to find but keep heading north east and you will stumble across it. Hope this helps.
By Drew Nevius
Dec 19, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
We used a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot (basically a #4 and a #5). Even after pulling the lip, I had trouble finding anywhere to place the #3 I took with me until 25ft past the top of the laybacking section. I wouldn't suggest leading this unless you have a #5 and maybe even a #6. Also note, it's hard to protect the seconding climber on the laybacking if your rope falls into the crack after they clean the gear.
I would suggest taking a #4(x2), #5(x2), maybe a #6, and some #1 and #2 cams for the belay at the horizontal crack 40ft up the slab.