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Shirley on Bunny
P1: Climb up the corner to a small roof split by a thin crack. Pull the roof (5.6) or alternately, move left 3 feet (5.4) and avoid the roof. Continue straight up to the first big ol' tree. From here, one rope will get you down.
P2: Another section of fun climbing up right to another big tree (two ropes from here) leads to the clifftop, where you can walk back to the Uberfall Descent. P1 and P2 can be easily combined.
At the Uberfall; start 10 feet left of Retribution at a crack in a right-facing corner / open book.
Regular trad rack.
the start of Bunny
Matt Leading up the first crack just below the sma...
Climber following Bunny.
Climber nearing the top of Bunny.
Looking down from the top of Bunny
|By Andy Choens|
From: Albany, NY
May 10, 2007
If you want to TR Retribution, you can lead Bunny, and veer to the right to get to the Retribution chains. It's no more than 5.5 this way.
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
My first Gunks route. Not real exciting but good to warm up on or practice placing pro on.
Oct 15, 2007
Most of the climb is 5.3, except for the opening moves, and the small overhang. Excellent protection. Really good for refining your speed climbing skills.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008
The climb is only 5.6 if you surmount the first roof direct. The actual rating is 5.4 and is achieved by following the original route that traverses left for a few feet, then back right over the hang.
|By Mark Roth|
Apr 7, 2011
I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.
Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing...
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Mar 14, 2012
The opening 25 feet has a few interesting technical moves. It's not a gimme. The bulge/roof is definitely in the 5.6 range. I find it easy to pull, but once you're upright the hands vanish and you end up feeling a bit uneasy as you slowly move your feet up on smeary holds and find a reachy hand on the wall to stabilize yourself.
|By Matt Baer|
Apr 19, 2012
My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot. One 60m rope gets you back down to the ground fine.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012
A great climb for a new leader (roof or walk around the roof). Lots of gear, great stances, no route finding, rings and slings on the tree. To me, this is a great little climb.