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a. The Uberfall
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer, 1955
Page Views: 7,922
Submitted By: Mr. Malloc on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (209)
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Shirley on Bunny

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


P1: Climb up the corner to a small roof split by a thin crack. Pull the roof (5.6) or alternately, move left 3 feet (5.4) and avoid the roof. Continue straight up to the first big ol' tree. From here, one rope will get you down.

P2: Another section of fun climbing up right to another big tree (two ropes from here) leads to the clifftop, where you can walk back to the Uberfall Descent. P1 and P2 can be easily combined.

Bolted belay added summer 2015.


At the Uberfall; start 10 feet left of Retribution at a crack in a right-facing corner / open book.


Regular trad rack.

Photos of Bunny Slideshow Add Photo
Start of Bunny
BETA PHOTO: Start of Bunny
Climber nearing the top of Bunny.
Climber nearing the top of Bunny.
the start of Bunny
the start of Bunny
Matt Leading up the first crack just below the sma...
Matt Leading up the first crack just below the sma...
Looking down from the top of Bunny
Looking down from the top of Bunny
Climber following Bunny.
Climber following Bunny.

Comments on Bunny Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Choens
From: Albany, NY
May 10, 2007

If you want to TR Retribution, you can lead Bunny, and veer to the right to get to the Retribution chains. It's no more than 5.5 this way.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

My first Gunks route. Not real exciting but good to warm up on or practice placing pro on.
By Risi
Oct 15, 2007

Most of the climb is 5.3, except for the opening moves, and the small overhang. Excellent protection. Really good for refining your speed climbing skills.
By Tim Schafstall
Apr 2, 2008

The climb is only 5.6 if you surmount the first roof direct. The actual rating is 5.4 and is achieved by following the original route that traverses left for a few feet, then back right over the hang.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.

Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing...
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The opening 25 feet has a few interesting technical moves. It's not a gimme. The bulge/roof is definitely in the 5.6 range. I find it easy to pull, but once you're upright the hands vanish and you end up feeling a bit uneasy as you slowly move your feet up on smeary holds and find a reachy hand on the wall to stabilize yourself.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot. One 60m rope gets you back down to the ground fine.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012

A great climb for a new leader (roof or walk around the roof). Lots of gear, great stances, no route finding, rings and slings on the tree. To me, this is a great little climb.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Sep 23, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Nice easy climb, though there was a runout section after the roof and before the first tree (optional belay/rappel). Jugs abound, but there were a few surprisingly committing moves to get to a jug that's just out of reach. I did the 5.4 variation and stopped at the first tree (I was climbing by headlamp in the dark and running out of draws..).

I added a new piece of red 1" webbing to the first tree anchor on 9/22/2014

Edit: I climbed this again, and didn't find a real runout this time- Maybe I looked more carefully, or it wasn't as dark out, not sure. Just be sure to utilize whatever placements you find after the roof. Tricams will serve you well.
By Mthoresz
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I thought it was an easy, fun route. We did the variation to the left of the roof, and it's no more than 5.4 that way, but still fun. I would do it again and try the roof line.
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