|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about as hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you don't stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was harder than anything on Neptune, which is 10a.
What gives? Does someone think this is funny? I think that intentionally misleading other climbers is childish and irresponsible at best, and reckless endangerment in the interest of ego inflation at worst!