||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Original: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||2004 - Roger Suen, Hristo Badakov, Alex Mach (as far as I know?)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||year round|
|Page Views: ||2,242|
|Submitted By: ||Roger Suen on Jan 12, 2012|
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"English High Step", 5.10 (R). 1983
Amazing/perfect splitter hand crack on Bunch Hall.
Not much to say other than enjoy and don't get caught.
On the north east outside of the building. Look for the hand crack just to the left of the entrance.
2 or 3 - # 1 or # 2 Camalots. Sling any sturdy looking roof fixtures at the top for anchor. Then rap off one of the big tree branches.
Never actually fell on the gear, not sure if the brick would just break with the force.
Parking Structure, 5.2 (X), solo up/down. Exciting...
BETA PHOTO: Approaching Bunche Hall from the south. Take a rig...
Extinct 5.10 OW, old Student Union Building, demol...
"Physical Graffiti", 5.10 (X).
"Face Climb", Tower of Masks, Theater/Fi...
"Lunch Crack", 5.12 (R) Extinct...demoli...
First (I think) ascent of Bunch Crunch
Ackerman Union wall, The Mantle, 5.10(R)
5.9(X) Up/Down Climb...Ackerman Union Building. NE...
Unknown Face, 1983. This was an Up then Down climb...
"The Gorilla Layback", 5.10-.11+ (R)...g...
Perfect hand crack, some ally on campus, 1983...go...
Ackerman Union, Arch right, 5.8...Fun!
5.10+ tight fist, South Face, Powell Library (If I...
The Co-Op Climbing Gym: Crack Machine, Peg Board, ...
From: Sherman Oaks, California
Sep 15, 2013
This makes me smile.
Mar 30, 2015
Peter Hayes had been a climber for twenty years by the time he arrived at UCLA, and climbing was life. He did many, many routes on campus, and the crack at Bunch Hall was one of them. It may have been climbed well before 1983, because there have been many climbers who were Bruins, and this crack was simply too obvious, and too perfect to overlook...and it is sorta hidden from the big view, unlike many of the other routes Peter did on campus between 1983 and 1987. He & his friends would highball, boulder, up & down climb, TR or lead...it all depended on the route. One route on the old Ackerman Union Building climbed a wall on cool features and finished by actually crawling through a window you had to open prior to the send. His roommate, Jim Steele, was his primary partner "in crime", and Campus Police only busted them once while edging on some steep, rock slabs decorating an entrance to the Medical School.
I do not know how to post other routes, so I will simply post the images and give a brief description. Hayes also built a climbing specific work out gym in the parking facility where he lived, and it was quite possibly one of the very first "Climbing Gyms" accessed by the public in the LA area. I'll post images of that, too. From his dorm room he could hear people working the peg board, and he'd always trot down stairs to greet them. He met a lot of climbers this way...and over thirty years later, that little gym is still being used, though it is now sitting behind locked gates, so only dorm members and their friends may use it.