Bumblies in the Dark
|170 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base
Really good route on excellent golden stone. I climbed up, clipped the first bolt, got onto the big ledge and clipped the second bolt and then reached down and un-clipped the first bolt to prevent rope drag. Balancy and subtle for the first three bolts. Precise and sequential footwork is necessary. The next three bolts are easier climbing on cool flat and occasionally incut edges. Another crux awaits at the sixth bolt, some flagging might be the trick to grabbing the big left facing flake pinch. Shake out on the giant jug, clip the seventh bolt and eye up the next section. Two crimps and a high foot will get you to the big horn jug and up to the chains.
This route is the farthest route to the right, or West at the Forgotten Trails. Follow the trail as far as it goes. When the trail disappears, scramble up a small talus slope and look for a boulder leaning against the wall. Go underneath the boulder and over two log landings. Stand on the big pine tree at the base of the route to belay.
8 bolts to chain anchors.