Bumblies For Breakfast
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My partner top-roping this in the mid '90s.
This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.
Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
Eva climbing Bumblies For Breakfast.
|Comments on Bumblies For Breakfast
|By Bryson Slothower|
Mar 27, 2002
I'm pretty comfortable on 5.10 and enjoyed leading this route but found it to be a bit dicey. The moves are fun and the holds are good but a slip from one of several 5.10 moves could leave you seriously bumming. It is possible to TR this route after leading the 5.9 just to the right that shares the same anchor
|By victor villarreal|
Apr 23, 2002
Ditto. Nice route, but the runouts are there. Don't lead it if you are not comfortable having your feet 7-10' above the last bolt.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 14, 2003
A small nut would take the sting out of the slopey section between the last bolt and the anchors.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 8, 2009
Personally I've always loved RS for its rather infrequent bolt placements. Runouts above bolts, coupled with the slow, steady, considerate style of climbing peculiar to this cliff just make me concentrate in a way I find irresistible. This route just happens to be the most Red Slab-esque in this sense. Highly recommended.
|By Dan Petty|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 8, 2010
First bolt placement was a waste IMHO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you would deck anyway.