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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Stones , The T 

Bumble Bee 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Takuya Yoshida 4/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: bradley white on Apr 26, 2010

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Summit view east.

Description 

Ascend the the giant crack past a small tree. Afterward the crack ends move left onto face and go left to tree belay (30ft). Climb face to boulders scramble up past the pillar and ascend wall above at the lowest ceiling break on the right side (crux). Going left is to Hannah flower and this is an excellent connection of two climbs. Going right through the overlap we were stopped because of moss and dirt on the ledge. There is a a open step over to the slab left of Hannah Flower clean and spooky. We escaped upward east over low angle dirty ledges instead. The climb can be improved. 'Bumble Bee' can ascend the same slab as 'Hannah' does for the second pitch. This won't happen without some intense cleaning at the base of the slab. Still problematic because there is no protection on the step over onto slab. 60m rope and one long run out pitch? That'll be the stinger.


Location 

Right side of Utopia Wall at the base of the large crack.


Protection 

Stoppers and Friends.



Photos of Bumble Bee Slideshow Add Photo
Tak below the crux and the geometric pillar. Out of view beginning of 2nd pitch.
Tak below the crux and the geometric pillar. Out o...
Start here. Crack is a set of giant stacked flakes. We didn't disturb a (toaster oven size) rock directly on top of the crack.
Start here. Crack is a set of giant stacked flakes...
Retreat spot. Also a clear photo of the route 'Hannah'. It goes up the left side of this slab and then through the quartz bands higher up. 'Bumble Bee' could go up the central area. Possibly no pro.
Retreat spot. Also a clear photo of the route 'Han...
Descending surrounded by flowers and the new leaves of spring.
Descending surrounded by flowers and the new leave...
Comments on Bumble Bee Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 26, 2010

the start looks great.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"I left the rock as it is. There are some interestingly wedged stones within this complexity (a intimidating 5.4). Before and past the tree is the sequential crux. This first pitch has some lichen before the little tree. All of this pitch is fun. Rappelling after this pitch can be done from a maple tree. There are lots of ticks and black flies. I'm not going back up until much later on in the year."

Comment by bradley white on April 28th, 2010 6:48 am