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Mt. Ne'er-do-well
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Bum Rush T 

Bum Rush 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 875', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 8/26/07
Season: late June through mid September
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 1, 2007

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East face with Bum Rush just left of center. The d...


The east face of Ne'er-do-well offers a low-commitment outing only 15 minutes from camp at Little Baron Lake with some good climbing.
Pitch 1: Follow a right-trending crack about 40' uphill from the most obvious diagonal crack. Finish up a left-facing dihedral to a small ledge with two trees. 5.7 180'
Pitch 2: Continue up the right-leaning thin crack past two small bulges and wander up and right on easier face to ledges below the main corner system. 5.9 215'
Pitch 3: Follow this major corner system up intermittent cracks and corners to a brushy belay shelf. 5.8 200'
Pitch 4: A right-leaning flaring chimney to the major ledge which bisects the entire face at about 4/5 height. 5.8 50'
Pitch 5: This wild pitch makes the route! Start up a blocky corner to a short awkward chimney. Continue up a clean, splitter fistcrack (5.10) to an alcove. Exit the alcove via a strenuous footless hand traverse into another fistcrack to a short chimney. 5.11a 215'
500' of 3rd and 4th class scrambling up slabs and blocks lead to the unique chockstone summit.


The east face is a short hike north of Little Baron Lake. Contour up through some trees and cross a talus field to the base of the face. Bum Rush starts uphill and about 40' left of the most obvious diagonal crack system on the lower face. To descend: scramble north a short distance from the summit and 4th class down steps and ramps on the upper east face. Work back slightly south and you should end up in a tight, chossy chute with a montrous chockstone partway down. One spectacular free rappel (single rope) over the chockstone and more careful scrambling takes you back to the base of the wall near the beginning of the route.


A double set of cams through #3 and one #4, a single set of stoppers, 70m rope is handy, especially for the final pitch.

Photos of Bum Rush Slideshow Add Photo
Bryan Schmitz on the 2nd pitch's thin crack.
Bryan Schmitz on the 2nd pitch's thin crack.

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