The first significant tower south of Owl Rock. Amazingly, while the crowds top rope Owl Rock within sight distance, I have never seen a party on Bullwinkle. There are a couple of routes to the top of this short tower. The rock is good, however, the summit has lots of loose stuff, so use good judgement. The tower is not tall, but it does have about 50 feet of vertical climbing.
Driving through the park, take a right on the road which leads towards the Windows area, just past Balanced Rock. Drive past the Garden of Eden road, down past Owl Rock, and as the road curves to the East, you can find atleast one pullout on the left side. A 5 minute walk leads over rock slabs around a mini tower and meets up with the Bullwinkle Tower formation. Bullwinkle Tower is recognized by the obvious west facing and south facing chimneys leading to its summit.
As the title says, West Chimney. When you get to the tower, you can walk around the main formation and look for the easiest looking chimney, if your sense of direction isn't up to par.The climb starts with an easy slab, up over a slightly tougher bulge, before you get to the crack below the chimney. (Approach the route and climb the bulge from the left.) Climb the crack, which takes good pro, and has the probable crux of the route, up to the chimney proper. You can get a last piece of gear i...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
On February 15, the Arches Task Force removed the 60 feet of tat rapped around the summit of Bullwinkel and replaced it with a three - 4 inch X 1/2 inch SS bolt and chain anchor. It is hoped that no tat will be added to the chain anchor so that a less obtrusive anchor can remain.
People.... take a wrench. It's a good idea to carry one on every tower. I"m not sure why this particular route has had the anchor messed with, but It was a damn solid one 6 years ago. For what its worth, someone messed with the anchor on Owl Rock a couple years after it was redone, but we re-fixed it. Be ready to make your own repairs.
The anchor is now down to one slightly loose bolt and a bunch of webbing wrapped around a bomber block. If the bolt ever comes out the block would be more than adequate. If the bolt anchor ever gets replaced some glue-ins in the existing holes would be a better option.