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Bullwinkle Tower

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Bullwinkle Tower Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.69514, -109.54811 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,843
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Oct 17, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The West Chimney climbs the obvious (right facing)...

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first significant tower south of Owl Rock. Amazingly, while the crowds top rope Owl Rock within sight distance, I have never seen a party on Bullwinkle. There are a couple of routes to the top of this short tower. The rock is good, however, the summit has lots of loose stuff, so use good judgement. The tower is not tall, but it does have about 50 feet of vertical climbing.

    Getting There 

    Driving through the park, take a right on the road which leads towards the Windows area, just past Balanced Rock. Drive past the Garden of Eden road, down past Owl Rock, and as the road curves to the East, you can find atleast one pullout on the left side. A 5 minute walk leads over rock slabs around a mini tower and meets up with the Bullwinkle Tower formation. Bullwinkle Tower is recognized by the obvious west facing and south facing chimneys leading to its summit.

    Climbing Season

    For the Arches National Park area.

    Weather station 7.7 miles from here

    2 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    Featured Route For Bullwinkle Tower
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cyndie Bransford rapping off Bullwinkle. Photo by ...

    West Chimney 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Bullwinkle Tower
    As the title says, West Chimney. When you get to the tower, you can walk around the main formation and look for the easiest looking chimney, if your sense of direction isn't up to par.The climb starts with an easy slab, up over a slightly tougher bulge, before you get to the crack below the chimney. (Approach the route and climb the bulge from the left.) Climb the crack, which takes good pro, and has the probable crux of the route, up to the chimney proper. You can get a last piece of gear i...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Bullwinkle Tower Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The center tower in this photo.  You can see the r...
    BETA PHOTO: The center tower in this photo. You can see the r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: scramble scramble
    BETA PHOTO: scramble scramble
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bullwinkle Tower
    Bullwinkle Tower

    Comments on Bullwinkle Tower Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Feb 19, 2007
    On February 15, the Arches Task Force removed the 60 feet of tat rapped around the summit of Bullwinkel and replaced it with a three - 4 inch X 1/2 inch SS bolt and chain anchor. It is hoped that no tat will be added to the chain anchor so that a less obtrusive anchor can remain.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 20, 2013
    The lower bolt on the left side of the anchor is now missing, and the one above has exposed sleeve and wobbles. The right side bolt seems good but all in all, a little scary on rappel.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Oct 20, 2013
    For some reason people mess with them. If you intend to climb this tower, you best take a wrench and perhaps a hand drill. Tighten up loose bolts... don't crank 'em, just tight.
    By aSteel
    Nov 20, 2013
    As of 11/18/13 the 2007 anchor was missing. There is one existing bolt with an exposed sleeve, and tat wrapped around a boulder that provides the most reliable descent.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Nov 27, 2013
    People.... take a wrench. It's a good idea to carry one on every tower. I"m not sure why this particular route has had the anchor messed with, but It was a damn solid one 6 years ago. For what its worth, someone messed with the anchor on Owl Rock a couple years after it was redone, but we re-fixed it. Be ready to make your own repairs.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Jun 18, 2014
    The anchor is now down to one slightly loose bolt and a bunch of webbing wrapped around a bomber block. If the bolt ever comes out the block would be more than adequate. If the bolt anchor ever gets replaced some glue-ins in the existing holes would be a better option.

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