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 ADVANCED
Below the New Wave
Routes Sorted
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Bullwinkle Craters S 
Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic S 
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Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M Sprague
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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nicole on Ballistic

Description 

The beginning of this one is a bit squeezed in but contains a few fun moves that are not used otherwise. After the crux its just a walk up the super moderate slab to the chains.

Start as for Bullwinkle Craters (5.11b) for a few steep jug moves with one really cool hold. Pull the tricky move on to the slab then 5.3ish climbing brings you to the left end of the upper deck of New Wave Wall. As Mark commented, you can run this route in to Air and Pleasant Danger (5.8) for a longer climb. Use a 70m rope if you do this and plan to come all the way back to the ground.


Location 

Starting on the same holds as Bullwinkle Craters head up and left out the roof.


Protection 

4 bolts to anchor. If you run it in to Air and Pleasant Danger, you will have to run out some easy vegetated slab to get to the goods on that route.



Photos of Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic Slideshow Add Photo
nicole pumping the juggy roof
nicole pumping the juggy roof
nicole, so hot right now <br />
nicole, so hot right now
lily focused <br />
lily focused
lily leading and nicole belaying
lily leading and nicole belaying
ryan
ryan
Comments on Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 16, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Either I did this route completely wrong the other day, or the grade is off, but it felt a number grade harder than the description implies. Nevertheless, a fun route with great slab climbing above.

By BTodd
May 26, 2008

unless I was on the wrong route, I thought this was more difficult as well...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 3, 2008

You guys are just weaik, lol :)

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wish I read the description first... now I want to run this out to Air and Pleasant Danger. :) Think I could lower to the (ledge) anchors of Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic to re-tie with a 60m rope?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2009

i think you could make it back to the ledge but remember to knot your rope...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is listed as .10a in the new quide book

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 23, 2009

10a?? Ward has gone soft

By S. Neoh
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The linkup with Air and Present Danger makes for a nice long moderate route. We confirmed today that a 60m rope will get you down safely to the ground from the anchors of Air and Present if you were to do the link up.
But as always, no matter what anyone says, watch the end of your rope very closely on lower.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The start to this climb is a ton of fun... very steep climbing on better holds than you can ask for.

By Eli Buzzell
From: Traveling with AmeriCorps
Jun 6, 2014

The start of this route is a blast! Grab the pizza!