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Below the New Wave
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Bullwinkle Craters S 
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Bullwinkle Craters 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Esmond, 4/98
Page Views: 1,340
Submitted By: Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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lily high stepping

Description 

Route starts up the steep juggy overhang then you pull onto the slab (crux) at the last bolt.


Location 

Far left end of Below New Wave. Be aware of ice falling out of the cave to the left during the winter/spring.


Protection 

4 bolts, chains to lower off. You may want to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery start.



Photos of Bullwinkle Craters Slideshow Add Photo
Me mid route on Bullwinkles
Me mid route on Bullwinkles
Pulling the crux... go hard or go for a short ride haha.
Pulling the crux... go hard or go for a short ride...
Strong Jon rock climbing. <br /><a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Strong Jon rock climbing.
www.bagleyheavybags.blog...
Comments on Bullwinkle Craters Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 20, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is one of those peculiar routes that on some days feels pretty casual and on others feels totally heinous. The top out should not be underestimated (that is, unless you are having one of those good days).

By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007

I really like this route. Some of the holds are a little sharp, but the moves are great and the top out is memorable. Shorties are nice too.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

There is now a new 4 bolt route just to the left that pulls a steep juggy boulder problem onto an easy face called Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic 5.9. It is possible to run this into Air and Pleasant Danger for a long link up if you don't mind running it out through a bit of vegetated choss in between (stay left of arete, skipping the start crux of A & P D ). Be careful when lowering if you do this. You may need a 70m to lower completely

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route was named for a moose that fell off of the ledge of regular New Wave, landing below this route. RIP Moose...

By J Meagher
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

About how hard is the mantle onto the slab and the slab climbing above it?

By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Mantle? I have never seen anyone mantle on this route. I certainly do not. If you can fire the crux, the slab above is trivial. Mind the last clip on the overhang. It is not all that easy to make. This is one of the good .11b introductory routes at Rumney, just like Little Big Man, Abominable Snowman, The Dingy, and Gulliver's Travels (talk about sharp crimps!).

By J Meagher
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sent on my second go. Surprisingly pumpy for only 20 feet of steep climbing. When you get to the move gaining the slab, trust your handholds and just go for it. The holds are better than they seem from below