Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Bulletheads South

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Alegria S 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 
Xenolith Dance S 

Bulletheads South Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,878
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Description 

Most of these climbs are scattered but many good combinations can be climbed from the Campground Wall on up. The most famous of them being "Slot Machine".

Getting There 

This is cliff located immediately after topping out on the fixed line on the approach trail.

Climbing Season

For the Squamish area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bulletheads South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bulletheads South:
Slot Machine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
A Cream of White Mice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Golden Labs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Manana   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Xenolith Dance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
The Black Book   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Alegria   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bulletheads South

Featured Route For Bulletheads South
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of Manana Crack

Manana 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Bulletheads South
The obvious finger crack on the wall left of several sport climbs including Xenolith Dance. The beginning has a distinct lightning-bolt look and the crux comes in the thin locks and small gear of the first 20'.The climb follows thin flakes and the obvious clean crack for 40m as the angle slowly kicks back. The last few moves are up a slab to the chains.Rated .10c in the Select guide, both myself and partner found it a touch easier, but still very fun. There is an intermediate rappel station (the...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Bulletheads South Add Comment
Show which comments
By JenniferL
Jul 12, 2016
The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficult to find. We followed a faint trail away from Fungus the Boogeyman (and Campground Wall) toward the right (away from the wall), walked slightly uphill, scrambling over a few boulders and still following a faint path for 5-10 minutes. The path then switchbacks left steeply up roots to the first fixed line.

Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to the fixed line just as I started the s...
Approach to the fixed line just as I started the switchback going left.

Rock Climbing Photo: The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficu...
The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficult to find. We followed a faint trail away from Fungus the Boogeyman (and Campground Wall) toward the right, walked slightly uphill scrambling over a few boulders and still following a faint path for 5-10 minutes. The path then switchbacks left steeply up roots (shown in photos) to the first fixed line.
By Ryan Canfield
From: North Bend, WA
Sep 21, 2016
Wow, what a royal pain in the ass to find!! The book does a horrible job describing the access to this route. Couldn't find a fixed line or anything. Ended up walking too far right and intersected the stairs to the top of the Chief. I'll try again on the next trip...

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!