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Bulletheads South

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Alegria S 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 
Xenolith Dance S 

Bulletheads South Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 5,998
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Forecast:
Friday

84° | 60°
Saturday

75° | 55°
Sunday

72° | 52°
Monday

73° | 51°
Tuesday

67° | 54°
Wednesday

75° | 59°
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Jessica leading with the ever attentive Steph bela...

Description 

Most of these climbs are scattered but many good combinations can be climbed from the Campground Wall on up. The most famous of them being "Slot Machine".

Getting There 

This is cliff located immediately after topping out on the fixed line on the approach trail.

Climbing Season

For the Squamish area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bulletheads South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bulletheads South:
Slot Machine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
A Cream of White Mice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Golden Labs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Manana   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Xenolith Dance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Coogee Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
The Black Book   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bulletheads South

Featured Route For Bulletheads South
Rock Climbing Photo: Slot Machine from the 1st Belay.

Slot Machine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  North America : Canada : ... : Bulletheads South
This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the begging to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing easy off quiet a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Bulletheads South Add Comment
Show which comments
By JenniferL
Jul 12, 2016
The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficult to find. We followed a faint trail away from Fungus the Boogeyman (and Campground Wall) toward the right (away from the wall), walked slightly uphill, scrambling over a few boulders and still following a faint path for 5-10 minutes. The path then switchbacks left steeply up roots to the first fixed line.

Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to the fixed line just as I started the s...
Approach to the fixed line just as I started the switchback going left.

Rock Climbing Photo: The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficu...
The fixed lines on the approach gully were difficult to find. We followed a faint trail away from Fungus the Boogeyman (and Campground Wall) toward the right, walked slightly uphill scrambling over a few boulders and still following a faint path for 5-10 minutes. The path then switchbacks left steeply up roots (shown in photos) to the first fixed line.

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