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Bullet Hole Wall
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Bullet Hole Wall Crack?? 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 982
Submitted By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The main Bullet Hole Wall Crack
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Description 

Crack that goes straight up through the right side of the bullet hole wall.


Location 

Obvious crack that splits the right side of the Bullet Hole Wall.


Protection 

Skill. Could lead or TR on cams as a fall from the top would hurt.



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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

IMO this thing always felt a bit harder than 5.7. Certainly harder than Double Cross at Josh. The moves are comitting, and...

Yes, the fall from this problem could certainly hurt. On 1/2/07 my friend Jessica fell from the crux finger moves about 3/4 of the way up this crack. I spotted her from the back breaking boulders behind. She caught her foot in that juggy ledge in the dihedral that is like 1 foot from the ground, and there was a sickening *CRACK*. Holding her from behind, I looked down to see her left leg bent 30 degrees at mid-shin. She screamed, not from pain, but because of the sight of her broken leg. "Its all right, honey," I said. "You broke your leg, but you're going to be fine."

To make a long story short she badly fractured both her tibia and fibula in her left leg. She went through surgery on 1/8 to have an intramedullary rod put in her tibia. Her spring season was ruined but by late March she was beginning to walk again, by May she was climbing again and by June she was leading harder than ever. She even boulders again (a little more carefully.) Amazing girl.

I owe a big thank-you to the guys who were there that day. I never even found out their names, but their help was invaluable in facilitating the minor rescue operation that ensued, including calling the ambulance and helping to transport Jessica to the vehicle. We are both lucky you guys were there that day, and that you spent an hour helping us instead of climbing. You guys rock.

By smokinJoe
Dec 30, 2011

Fun climb- maybe rated at V1

By Mike Radford
From: Orange, CA
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

don't fall when you get close to the top. the little shelf at the bottom is a for sure ankle twister.

By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

V1 please change put V scale option