|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007|
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|Comments on Bullet Hole Wall Crack??||Add Comment|
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
IMO this thing always felt a bit harder than 5.7. Certainly harder than Double Cross at Josh. The moves are comitting, and...
Yes, the fall from this problem could certainly hurt. On 1/2/07 my friend Jessica fell from the crux finger moves about 3/4 of the way up this crack. I spotted her from the back breaking boulders behind. She caught her foot in that juggy ledge in the dihedral that is like 1 foot from the ground, and there was a sickening *CRACK*. Holding her from behind, I looked down to see her left leg bent 30 degrees at mid-shin. She screamed, not from pain, but because of the sight of her broken leg. "Its all right, honey," I said. "You broke your leg, but you're going to be fine."
To make a long story short she badly fractured both her tibia and fibula in her left leg. She went through surgery on 1/8 to have an intramedullary rod put in her tibia. Her spring season was ruined but by late March she was beginning to walk again, by May she was climbing again and by June she was leading harder than ever. She even boulders again (a little more carefully.) Amazing girl.
I owe a big thank-you to the guys who were there that day. I never even found out their names, but their help was invaluable in facilitating the minor rescue operation that ensued, including calling the ambulance and helping to transport Jessica to the vehicle. We are both lucky you guys were there that day, and that you spent an hour helping us instead of climbing. You guys rock.
Dec 30, 2011
|Fun climb- maybe rated at V1|
By Mike Radford
From: Orange, CA
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|don't fall when you get close to the top. the little shelf at the bottom is a for sure ankle twister.|
By Chris Kehoe
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
|I'd say the fall equates to most of the difficulty rating. If you know good jams it's mostly in your head.|