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Bull Canyon is the canyon that holds Gemini Bridges. Above the bridges it is inconsequential. Below, it is deep, cliffs all around, plus the side canyons hold many more fins and domes. only route, Repo Man, takes a tower just a couple hundred yards downstream of the bridges. Access to the below-the-bridges part of the canyon is via the Little Valley.
Drive north from Moab, left onto the Gemini Bridges road. Drive past the Gooney Bird, turn right a half-mile later (possibly signed Gemini Bridges) and head up a steep hill. Turn left (south) at next junction, after about a half-mile. Drive south, past the turn-off for Two Tortoise Rock, and turn right (may be signed "Bull Canyon"). Continue up the best route, mostly in the wash, until reaching the end of the canyon, with its "No Vehicles" signs. This is about 100 yards before the canyon ends under Gemini Bridges. Lots of potential here on the canyon cliffs and side canyons.
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Repo Man 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b A3- UT : Moab Area : ... : Bull Canyon
Start under an obvious "A" shaped chimney on the south side. 1. Climb over loose blocks into the obvious thin crack, left of the chimney. At crack's end, reach left into another crack. Up this to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor (A2, 100'). 2. Traverse right past two bolts onto the southeast face. Up a nice crack until it ends. Move right into a second, shallower and more fragile crack system. Up this (becomes better and steeper) to the top (A3-, 100')....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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