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Start this route just to the right of the large left-facing dihedral (Left 'N Up). Wander through some bulges for the first half of the face. Some of these involve what felt like balancy moves for the 5.0 grade it's given in the guidebook. The upper half of the face is much more featured and therefore much easier. The route finishes at a notch with a different tree than described for all the other easy routes on the website. A 2-bolt anchor is just under this tree -- the rap is approx. 90-95 feet. A 50m rope will not get you all the way down (probably to a ledge though -- where you could scramble off).
BETA PHOTO: Tracy Roach leading Pitch 3, the wildly undulating...
Higher up on Bulges, where the rock becomes more f...
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.1 2 6 II MD 2a
P1 is runout with no pro. Made an anchor at a large rock with cracks visible from the ground. P2 went up to a bulge with a slot in it that took one cam. Over that is a huge ledge with a tree next to it. The ledge is large enough for several cars. P3 - From there I went up to a juniper tree and made a sling anchor. P4 follows a large crack that takes big cams ending up at a seat with cracks for a gear anchor. P5 is basically a walk over the bulge to the summit ridge.
The rappel from the 2-bolt anchor for the sport route at the North end of the ridge is actually more like 80 ft., so a 50 meter rope would just barely get you down. A 60 m rope will leave you a pile of extra on the ground. There are no quicklinks or chains on the bolts as of 5-9-07.
|By Mic Fairchild|
Apr 22, 2012
Kung fu, that was one of my good ones.
But what's a few broken bones,
when you know that it's good clean fun?!
Not many belay options, but fun climbing (about 4 pitches) onto the crest as shown in pic above, then scramble south along the ridge to hiking terrain and exit to the west.