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By Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 30, 2012
Self portrait at the summit. Perfect day.

slim wrote:
right now i have barely enough time for 1 big workout per week. so i will tend to maximize volume because i have plenty of recovery time.

To my knowledge the literature supports this as an effective form of strength maintenance.


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By slim
Nov 30, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

that's interesting as it seems consistent with how my performance has been over the last few months. basically hovering at a decent level, waiting for work to chill so i can try to bump it up again.

i have basically just been able to use my hangboard. i do about 6 weeks of hypertrophy style workouts and then 4 weeks of more of a recruitment style workout. all in all, i have been pretty happy with how i have been climbing, given my limited amount of time.


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By Paul Semen
Dec 9, 2012

I just started a "grease the groove" type strength phase for climbing and figured I'd pipe in. I'm starting week 3 now so I still have a while to go.

My workout consists of:
-warmup (5 minute or so traverse)
-rest ~5 minutes
-2 sets of weighted deadhangs on an edge w/ 3 - 5 minute rests between
-2 sets of front lever raises

I do this workout Monday - Thursday (climb outside on weekends but that might change soon since its cold as shit), and usually on 1 or 2 of the days I will do this workout in the morning and in the evening. The workout lasts less than 30 minutes and I usually feel really strong and fresh at the end.

I don't time my deadhangs, but basically they are <10 seconds and I only hang to about 80% of my ability.

Thus far I've noticed the deadhangs are getting easier and easier even with added weight. I'm planning on sticking with this plan for 5 - 6 weeks.


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