Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appalachain Chuffer 
Appalachain Runt 
Between The Lines 
Big Arete, The 
Bonsai 
Built to Tilt 
Change Up 
Comfortably Numb 
Construction Job 
Dancing Outlaw, The 
Desp-arete 
Dopey Duck 
Early Times 
Energizer 
Enterprise, The 
False Paradise 
Finders Keepers 
Fly By 
Footloose 
For The Birds 
Full Tilt Boogie 
Golden Rule 
Help Mr. Wizard 
Humdinger 
Julia 
Just Another Pretty Face 
Last Straw, The 
Learning to fly 
Little Corner 
Lost and Found 
Made in the shade 
Maginot Line 
Maginot Roof 
Paradise Alley 
Paradise City 
Paradise Lost 
Pinball Wizard 
Saddle Up 
Sleight of Hand 
Stopperhead Arete 
Straight and Narrow 
Supercrack  
Trick Or Treat 
Turn and Burn 
Twist of fate 
White Corner 
White Russians Gone Bananas 
Unsorted Routes:

Built to Tilt 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel - 1981
Page Views: 3,157
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Built to tilt climbs the obvious dihedral to a led...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An incredible line with the 3rd pitch being one of the proudest pitches of 5.10a trad anywhere.

    P1 (5.7) Climb right arching feature to hanging island of trees and shrubbery. Belay then move belay up and climbers right to spot below diehedral way up above you.

    P2 (5.8). Climb to base of diehedral. I remember long slings being nice.

    P3 (crux). This is why you climb this route! Climb diehedral to its top (5.9) which is actually the top of a pillar under a large horizontal roof. Keyhole a nut in the crack (yep, you heard right!) and commit to the roof. You would swear moves like these are in a gym but that nut dangling behind you reminds you otherwise. Awesome holds over the lip will get you to the top.


    Location 

    From the descent gully turn left and walk a few hundred yards around the buttress. Start at the base of a gully-like weakness in the wall overhead. There are two starts, the left variation (aka Serentripitous) being slightly better quality. The original start can be recognized by the little offwidth towards the end of the pitch.


    Protection 

    One of everything.



    Photos of Built to Tilt Slideshow Add Photo
    Roof pullin' on Built to Tilt, Shortoff, NC.
    Roof pullin' on Built to Tilt, Shortoff, NC.
    Comments on Built to Tilt Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By cshuey77
    From: Asheviile,nc
    May 27, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    AMAZING EXPOSURE!!

    By rock_fencer
    From: Columbia, SC
    Oct 24, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    only three stars because of the approach pitches. Highly suggest to rappel in from the top. From the bottom Start on Serentripitous and climb the fun and mellow crack up to a vegetated ledge. Unrope and bushwack up the hill to a corner under a large notch. Rack up for some 5.8 bucket hauling up to the ledge. Pitch three takes at least three good pieces under the roof if you get nervous. Crank the boulder problem and bucket haul to the top.

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Dec 26, 2011

    For harder approach pitches try Energizer, Turn & Burn, or either of the Appalachain runt/Chuffer routes. They all start in roughly the same spot as Serentripitous.

    By Robb Kranz
    Mar 27, 2012

    hey rock_fencer, any details on the rap in. Tried to rap in cliff right of the climb this past weekend and ended up mid money pitch, and rappelling over some sharp edges. Can you simply set an anchor in the cave, rappel directly over the route, and make the ground in a rope length? I was worried about slope at the base putting the earth out of reach.

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    May 16, 2012

    Hey Robb,

    Just rap out of the cave to the far climbers left. One single rope is plenty (only 70' or so), then do a short downclimb to the start of the 5.8 pitch in the gully/ledge.

    By Edward Medina
    Administrator
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Mar 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    You can optionally build a belay on the platform just below the crux. Very solid gear here that allows your belayer to keep you nice and snug while you commit to the airy moves 200' off the deck. I found a decent green alien in a shallow pod about a foot past the keyholed nut placement.