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Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
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Appalachain Chuffer T 
Appalachain Runt T 
Between The Lines T 
Big Arete, The T 
Bonsai T 
Built to Tilt T 
Change Up T 
Comfortably Numb T 
Construction Job T 
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 
Desp-arete S 
Dopey Duck T 
Early Times T 
Energizer T,S 
Enterprise, The T 
False Paradise T 
Finders Keepers T 
Fly By T 
Footloose T 
For The Birds T 
Full Tilt Boogie T 
Golden Rule T,S 
Gully Rappel T,TR 
Help Mr. Wizard T 
Humdinger T 
Hurricane Escape Hatch T 
Julia T 
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 
Last Straw, The T,S 
Learning to fly T 
Little Corner T 
Lost and Found T,S 
Made in the shade T 
Maginot Line T 
Maginot Roof T 
Paradise Alley T 
Paradise City T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Reacharound T 
Saddle Up T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stopperhead Arete T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Supercrack  T 
Tilted Arms T 
Toxic Shock T 
Trick Or Treat T 
Turn and Burn T 
Twist of fate T 
White Corner T 
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Built to Tilt 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel - 1981
Page Views: 7,301
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Built to tilt climbs the obvious dihedral to a led...

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  • Description 

    An incredible line with the 3rd pitch being one of the proudest pitches of 5.10a trad anywhere.

    P1 (5.7) Climb right arching feature to hanging island of trees and shrubbery. Belay then move belay up and climbers right to spot below diehedral way up above you.

    P2 (5.8). Climb to base of diehedral. I remember long slings being nice.

    P3 (crux). This is why you climb this route! Climb diehedral to its top (5.9) which is actually the top of a pillar under a large horizontal roof. Keyhole a nut in the crack (yep, you heard right!) and commit to the roof. You would swear moves like these are in a gym but that nut dangling behind you reminds you otherwise. Awesome holds over the lip will get you to the top.


    From the descent gully turn left and walk a few hundred yards around the buttress. Start at the base of a gully-like weakness in the wall overhead. There are two starts, the left variation (aka Serentripitous) being slightly better quality. The original start can be recognized by the little offwidth towards the end of the pitch.


    One of everything.

    Photos of Built to Tilt Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Roof pullin' on Built to Tilt, Shortoff, NC.
    Roof pullin' on Built to Tilt, Shortoff, NC.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof
    Pulling the roof
    Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Built to Tilt as seen approachi...
    BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Built to Tilt as seen approachi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is the point on the trail, about 500 feet bef...
    BETA PHOTO: This is the point on the trail, about 500 feet bef...

    Comments on Built to Tilt Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By cshuey77
    From: Asheviile,nc
    May 27, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    By rock_fencer
    From: Columbia, SC
    Oct 24, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    only three stars because of the approach pitches. Highly suggest to rappel in from the top. From the bottom Start on Serentripitous and climb the fun and mellow crack up to a vegetated ledge. Unrope and bushwack up the hill to a corner under a large notch. Rack up for some 5.8 bucket hauling up to the ledge. Pitch three takes at least three good pieces under the roof if you get nervous. Crank the boulder problem and bucket haul to the top.
    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Dec 26, 2011

    For harder approach pitches try Energizer, Turn & Burn, or either of the Appalachain runt/Chuffer routes. They all start in roughly the same spot as Serentripitous.
    By Robb Kranz
    Mar 27, 2012

    hey rock_fencer, any details on the rap in. Tried to rap in cliff right of the climb this past weekend and ended up mid money pitch, and rappelling over some sharp edges. Can you simply set an anchor in the cave, rappel directly over the route, and make the ground in a rope length? I was worried about slope at the base putting the earth out of reach.
    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    May 16, 2012

    Hey Robb,

    Just rap out of the cave to the far climbers left. One single rope is plenty (only 70' or so), then do a short downclimb to the start of the 5.8 pitch in the gully/ledge.
    By Edward Medina
    From: Ridgway, CO
    Mar 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    You can optionally build a belay on the platform just below the crux. Very solid gear here that allows your belayer to keep you nice and snug while you commit to the airy moves 200' off the deck. I found a decent green alien in a shallow pod about a foot past the keyholed nut placement.
    By Eric Sorte
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Sep 11, 2016

    Climbed Built to Tilt this weekend. It took us awhile to find it, so I'll add a few comments on getting there.

    From the parking lot, follow the trail as described. After 300 or 400 meters there is a right turn, marked with a trail marker sign that says Shortoff. Take that trail. Continue hiking (~45 minutes) until you get to a very clear sign where Mtn-to-Sea trail crosses your path. Two options from here. To rap down, backtrack a few hundred feet to the large clearing (we posted a photo of it). Walk to the edge and rap down here. GPS coordinates of the rap point are 35.830114,-81.902420.

    If you want to do the first several pitches, continue on until you get to the spring (it has a PVC pipe coming out of the hillside; it's very obvious). This is the descent, as mentioned above. Consider stowing your bags here if you brought them; the climb ends a few hundred yards behind you were you would rap down. There is a fifth class section in the gully that has a few fixed ropes on it as of Sept 2016. The path will angle to the left after leaving the gully, and Built to Tilt comes up quickly in a few hundred yards. From the gully, if you keep looking to your left as you descend, you can see the top of second pitch and the roof that is the third pitch. Continue on the trail until you see this big flat rock in the trail. A huge square rock will be on your right.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rock in the trail.  Turn off the trail here and he...
    Rock in the trail. Turn off the trail here and head toward the wall.

    At that rock, turn left and head up to the wall. You'll see the first pitch, a nice 5.7 crack immediately left of a large offwidth.

    P1 - climb that crack. It's pretty fun, actually, though the top has a lot of lichen. It ends on a tree-filled ledge.

    P2 - walk up the ledge a bit until you see a big hole in the rock (called a "notch" in another post, but more of a cave really - it's quite large). Climb up the corner under the cave and head up to the base of the pillar under the roof.

    P3 - The crack in the obvious dihedral between the pillar and the face. It's off balance - hard for 5.9 I thought. We belayed from the top of the pillar under the roof.

    P4 - There's ample protection for the roof moves. Make a few juggy moves out on the roof past the pillar, cut feet, throw a heel up by your ear, and get up there. Great exposure and lots of fun.

    I thought the first few pitches were kind of fun. No reason to avoid them.

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