An incredible line with the 3rd pitch being one of the proudest pitches of 5.10a trad anywhere.
P1 (5.7) Climb right arching feature to hanging island of trees and shrubbery. Belay then move belay up and climbers right to spot below diehedral way up above you.
P2 (5.8). Climb to base of diehedral. I remember long slings being nice.
P3 (crux). This is why you climb this route! Climb diehedral to its top (5.9) which is actually the top of a pillar under a large horizontal roof. Keyhole a nut in the crack (yep, you heard right!) and commit to the roof. You would swear moves like these are in a gym but that nut dangling behind you reminds you otherwise. Awesome holds over the lip will get you to the top.
From the descent gully turn left and walk a few hundred yards around the buttress. Start at the base of a gully-like weakness in the wall overhead. There are two starts, the left variation (aka Serentripitous) being slightly better quality. The original start can be recognized by the little offwidth towards the end of the pitch.
By cshuey77 From: Asheviile,nc May 27, 2010 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
By rock_fencer From: Columbia, SC Oct 24, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
only three stars because of the approach pitches. Highly suggest to rappel in from the top. From the bottom Start on Serentripitous and climb the fun and mellow crack up to a vegetated ledge. Unrope and bushwack up the hill to a corner under a large notch. Rack up for some 5.8 bucket hauling up to the ledge. Pitch three takes at least three good pieces under the roof if you get nervous. Crank the boulder problem and bucket haul to the top.
hey rock_fencer, any details on the rap in. Tried to rap in cliff right of the climb this past weekend and ended up mid money pitch, and rappelling over some sharp edges. Can you simply set an anchor in the cave, rappel directly over the route, and make the ground in a rope length? I was worried about slope at the base putting the earth out of reach.
Just rap out of the cave to the far climbers left. One single rope is plenty (only 70' or so), then do a short downclimb to the start of the 5.8 pitch in the gully/ledge.
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Brighton, CO Mar 30, 2013 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
You can optionally build a belay on the platform just below the crux. Very solid gear here that allows your belayer to keep you nice and snug while you commit to the airy moves 200' off the deck. I found a decent green alien in a shallow pod about a foot past the keyholed nut placement.