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Building first rack. Questions?
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By APBT1976
Mar 29, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

Nuts

Wild country rocks "Full sets" plus Superlight rocks.

Or

Metiliouse curved nuts and Astro nuts.

Or

Dmm Walnuts and Alloy and brass offsets?


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By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2012

DMM set


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By bearbreeder
Mar 30, 2012

i use DMMs walnuts, peanuts and offsets ... it all depends where you climb there is no "right" answer ...

go out and try as many nuts as possible with people more experienced who have em


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By Canon
Mar 30, 2012

Whatever you like and can get for the best price.


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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Mar 30, 2012
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan

Gannon wrote:
Whatever you like and can get for the best price.


if he knew what he liked, he wouldn't be asking, and he never said price was an issue

DMM all the way


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 30, 2012
El Chorro

DMM Walnuts and offsets set me right for most areas, but not everyone likes them.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Mar 30, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I have BD 4-13 set and the DMM offset alloys. Although the DMMs are only 5 sizes, I find myself reaching for them more often than the more "conventional" BD stoppers. I love those things (the offsets). They seem to find their own placements sometimes. I don't think you can go wrong with them, but like Ryan said, it probably depends on where you are.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 30, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

DMM Walnuts get some other brand to fill in as you can. Craigslist. I also like different brands of cams BD and Metolius. Slightly different and one works when the other doesn't fit as well. Craigslist.


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By APBT1976
Mar 30, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

My climbing takes place in New Hampshire, Maine, Mass, and Vermont...

With All the options being fairly within each other I see no point in choosing based on price. I am really looking to make a good decision for a basic set that I can then add weird stuff to for specific situations or areas.

To be honest I have the Wild Country nuts but I can still return them as they are unused and I bought them from one of those great "no questions asked" return policy retailers.

I started climbing ice a few years ago and bought everything I needed the first season for the most part. Now after really using the stuff I have replaces most of that gear for what I really like and or need? I would like to avaoid this whole deal with the very very expensive rock rack!!!

Thanks for the help..


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By crewdoglm
From TAFB CA
Mar 30, 2012
78 degrees north at 40,000 bearing about 220. Five hour sunset.

I'll offer this: the brand is not as important as the shape and I recommend the classic stopper. I agree DMM is nice and ABC huevos are worth looking at especially for the price. My main suggestion is that normal symmetrical nuts are preferable for your first couple semesters of leading. A lot of guys are crazy about offsets but I would wait on those until you are adept at seeing the placements. Offsets like to sit in flares thus creating the illusion that they will STAY in there in a fall. A nice symmetrical constriction is what you want any day. Best wishes.


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By randy88fj62
Mar 30, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

I agree with crewdoglm. Get a set of cheap stoppers and hexes. Post in the sale section looking for a cheap set and somebody will help you out. The cams will come in time. If you can practice leading with hexes and stoppers then by the time you get cams you will be set. Way too many people rely almost entirely on cams with a few stopper placements. Knowing when and how to place passive pro is very important, especially when climbing alpine routes where weight and speed in everything. My girlfriend hates hexes and it kills me because they are so versatile.


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By APBT1976
Mar 30, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

randy88fj62 wrote:
I agree with crewdoglm. Get a set of cheap stoppers and hexes. Post in the sale section looking for a cheap set and somebody will help you out. The cams will come in time. If you can practice leading with hexes and stoppers then by the time you get cams you will be set. Way too many people rely almost entirely on cams with a few stopper placements. Knowing when and how to place passive pro is very important, especially when climbing alpine routes where weight and speed in everything. My girlfriend hates hexes and it kills me because they are so versatile.


Oops I already have a full set of Wild Country Heliums. Really it does not matter much as I can always just use my buddies gear but a couple of my buddies stress developing a system of my own and getting used to using my own gear. Hence just building up a full rack.


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By APBT1976
Mar 30, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

randy88fj62 wrote:
I agree with crewdoglm. Get a set of cheap stoppers and hexes. Post in the sale section looking for a cheap set and somebody will help you out. The cams will come in time. If you can practice leading with hexes and stoppers then by the time you get cams you will be set. Way too many people rely almost entirely on cams with a few stopper placements. Knowing when and how to place passive pro is very important, especially when climbing alpine routes where weight and speed in everything. My girlfriend hates hexes and it kills me because they are so versatile.


Also I do like the idea of starting with "depending" on nuts and stoppers as much as you can while learning. Seems to make sense I will see as I put all this into practice.

If i wanna purchase stoppers also any suggestions or does none of it really matter brand wise as they " mostly" all work the same?


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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Mar 30, 2012
At the matching crux

I climb in the same areas as you and tend to gravitate to my WildCountry Rocks as my primary set of stoppers. I also have a set of BD but I still prefer the WC.


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By randy88fj62
Mar 30, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

APBT1976 wrote:
Also I do like the idea of starting with "depending" on nuts and stoppers as much as you can while learning. Seems to make sense I will see as I put all this into practice. If i wanna purchase stoppers also any suggestions or does none of it really matter brand wise as they " mostly" all work the same?


APBT1976,
Any set of stoppers will work. I have used BD and OP stopper sets for over four years. Now that I'm trying to go lighter I'm looking at some of the other brands out there. If your main goal is apline try to go light to begin with. If alpine is not your main goal then go with the cheapest set you can find. I just sold a set of HB nuts for $40. Deals are out there, post in the for sale / WTB section.


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By APBT1976
Mar 30, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

randy88fj62 wrote:
APBT1976, Any set of stoppers will work. I have used BD and OP stopper sets for over four years. Now that I'm trying to go lighter I'm looking at some of the other brands out there. If your main goal is apline try to go light to begin with. If alpine is not your main goal then go with the cheapest set you can find. I just sold a set of HB nuts for $40. Deals are out there, post in the for sale / WTB section.


Def care about weight..

What nuts are the Weight Weenies into?


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By bearbreeder
Mar 30, 2012

just use the WC ones you already have ,... get offsets later should you find yrself faced with flary cracks

it all comes down to preference .. again there is no right or wrong answer


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By mattm
From TX
Mar 30, 2012
Grande Grotto

Stick with your WC rocks for now. I consider these the "STANDARD" nut everyone should start out with. As you climb more you'll figure out what you want to supplement with. Gunks tend to like the Metolius straight taper design in my experience, NH I found the DMM Walnuts were a good second nut.

The Offsets are a good nut but much more specialized. I think they are either "better than sliced bread" or a "worthless weight" depending on the rock you're climbing. Pin scar prone areas like Yos or Index like them, other areas, not so much.

I do remember REALLY liking the smaller DMM Peanut offsets in NH though.

Weight Wienies like the Metolius Nuts


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Mar 30, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Lots and lots of hexes.


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By APBT1976
Mar 30, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

Thanks for the help guys....

Hope everyone has a great weekend.


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 16, 2012
me (about to sneeze)

Metolius ultra light curved nuts. 1/3 pound lighter than the BD equivalent.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Apr 16, 2012
perfect seam

DMM offsets are amazing.


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Apr 16, 2012

Nelson Day wrote:
Metolius ultra light curved nuts. 1/3 pound lighter than the BD equivalent.

They'll be even lighter after getting stuck in the crack.


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By slim
Administrator
Apr 16, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

bwah hah hah! that was my first thought.


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