BETA PHOTO: Some of the more popular routes @ Buick Rocks
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Description
These three crags sit on the same hillside facing SW. The routes are mostly short (less than 80 feet) trad and mixed routes requiring some natural protection, often toprope-able. The grades range from 5.7-5.11. Although the 15+ possible routes here are not the best in this area, the Green Slab (5.9+) on Buick Rocks 1st Buttress and an unnamed face route (5.10) on Buick Rocks 2nd Buttress are worthwhile climbs. The approach is a short but loose rocky trail up from the pullout.
Getting There
From the Shelly Cottage turnoff follow County Road 80 about .6 miles, 0.1 miles past the Entryway slabs. Pullout on the left or right and hike up to the right to the crags.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life:
This is the wide crack next to Pooh Belly (two left of the Unknown Face).It offers steep jamming and good pro,with some loose feet up the second buttress. The Hubbel guide lists the climb at 5.8. I thought it was at least 5.9. Maybe I was wimpy that day, but it felt fairly tough compared to what I was expecting. Walk off......[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I actually agree with Hubbel's guide for this area in re: to "stars": Green Slab** is certainly worth doing as is The Buick*, and Unknown Face**. . . the [latter] being my favorite here. There's potential for more lines although, there is a sign posted (Boulder County I think) that says NO fixed hardware can be added. If you hike up to the [aqueduct] you'll find some nice lines up there (some trad. and some TR). If you are heading up the canyon or going to River Wall (et al.) then you should stop to climb these (the approach is 2 minutes).
There is a large quanity of poison Ivy here so know what to avoid before hiking up. The OH crack on the left inset rocks is pretty good but harder than 5.8 given in the book, and there is a moderate bolted line to its left, 10 or 9.
How did this place get this screwy name HSL? I'd vote to change the name back to the orginal name used by locals, and toss the name used in the guide book.
HSL is the name of a Piana/Lavender route near the right end of the rock. Having possibly done the FA of the Initial Route, 11 years before their effort, I suggest naming this Buick Rock 3, in keeping with the theme in Gillett's guidebook.
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