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Bugaboo Spire

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Bugaboo Spire 


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Location: 50.74546, -116.78853 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 101,955
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
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The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Cres...

Description 

This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.


Getting There 

Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bugaboo Spire:
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   
Browse More Classics in Bugaboo Spire

Featured Route For Bugaboo Spire
Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Kain Route (South Ridge) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  North America : Canada : ... : Bugaboo Spire
By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Bugaboo Spire Slideshow Add Photo
The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the top of the Kain Route.
The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the ...
Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and Snowpatch.
Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and ...
Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spire.
Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spir...
Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background
Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background
Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW
BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW
Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.
Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.
Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides) <br /> <br /><a href='http://acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp</a>  <br /> <br />“The following is a report from Tay Hanson, Senior Park Ranger for BC Parks.  A major rockfall event occured yesterday that originated from above the climber's right side of the col.  Coincidently, the old raps stations on that side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns.  Also note that a new toilet was installed at Applebee to relieve the morning line-ups! <br />  <br />Rain initiated rock and mud slide on 090711 at approx 0900 hrs. <br />  <br />All rappel stations have been removed from the climbers’ right hand side of the col. This rap route was established during a time when snow and ice covered the scree slope but currently presents an unacceptable rock fall hazard to climbers lower on the col.  <br />  <br />Two chain stations have been added to the rap route on climbers’ left allowing for 3-4 30m rappels over the bergschrund, or more safely, 1 double rope rappel to below the rock island and then another to well below the bergschrund. <br />  <br />As you can see, the col is in disastrous condition and is best avoided. <br />  <br />Also included is a pic of Applebee’s new rock toilet. <br />  <br />Jeff Volp <br />ACMG/BC Parks” <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian M...
Summit panorama looking southwest
Summit panorama looking southwest
Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimney for the Northeast Ridge. The Kain Route is the ridge on the lefthand skyline and the Northeast Ridge is the on the right.
Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimne...
View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Bugaboo
View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Buga...
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