This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.
Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bugaboo Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bugaboo Spire:
Kain Route (South Ridge) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'
North East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'
Featured Route For Bugaboo Spire
North East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b North America : Canada : ... : Bugaboo Spire
A classic moderate alpine rock route of the highest caliber. Excellent rock on one of North America's great peaks.The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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