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Bugaboo Spire

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Divine Intervention T 
Kain Route (South Ridge) T 
North East Ridge T 

Bugaboo Spire 


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Location: 50.74546, -116.78853 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,929
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
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The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Cres...

Description 

This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.


Getting There 

Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bugaboo Spire:
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   
Browse More Classics in Bugaboo Spire

Featured Route For Bugaboo Spire
John Fujii on Pitch 1.

North East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  North America : Canada : ... : Bugaboo Spire
A classic moderate alpine rock route of the highest caliber. Excellent rock on one of North America's great peaks.The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Bugaboo Spire Slideshow Add Photo
The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the top of the Kain Route.
The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the ...
Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and Snowpatch.
Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and ...
Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Summit panorama looking southwest
Summit panorama looking southwest
Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW
BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW
View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Bugaboo
View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Buga...
Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimney for the Northeast Ridge. The Kain Route is the ridge on the lefthand skyline and the Northeast Ridge is the on the right.
Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimne...
Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides) <br /> <br /><a href='http://acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp</a>  <br /> <br />“The following is a report from Tay Hanson, Senior Park Ranger for BC Parks.  A major rockfall event occured yesterday that originated from above the climber's right side of the col.  Coincidently, the old raps stations on that side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns.  Also note that a new toilet was installed at Applebee to relieve the morning line-ups! <br />  <br />Rain initiated rock and mud slide on 090711 at approx 0900 hrs. <br />  <br />All rappel stations have been removed from the climbers’ right hand side of the col. This rap route was established during a time when snow and ice covered the scree slope but currently presents an unacceptable rock fall hazard to climbers lower on the col.  <br />  <br />Two chain stations have been added to the rap route on climbers’ left allowing for 3-4 30m rappels over the bergschrund, or more safely, 1 double rope rappel to below the rock island and then another to well below the bergschrund. <br />  <br />As you can see, the col is in disastrous condition and is best avoided. <br />  <br />Also included is a pic of Applebee’s new rock toilet. <br />  <br />Jeff Volp <br />ACMG/BC Parks” <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian M...
Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.
Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.
Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background
Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background
Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spire.
Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spir...
Bugaboo and the Crescent Spires
Bugaboo and the Crescent Spires
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