Bugaboo Footware

So I am finally making the pilgrimage to the Bugs this August. I have read that approach shoes + gators work well, preferably ones with better gortex lining to minimize the foot soak. My 5.10 guide tennies just kicked the bucket, any recommendations? Getting stoked, hopefully not soaked.

Depending on snow cover and the routes you have in mind you might be okay with flexible approach shoes, but personally I'd prefer a stiffer boot that works better with crampons. By August you might have to deal with exposed glacial ice in spots. It doesn't have to be a heavy-duty boot, and lightweight strap-on crampons should be fine. But flexible shoes with strap-on crampons aren't much use for anything beyond soft snow or straightforward walks.

My last trip (in August) I used guide tennies with cheap strap on crampons. I brought gore-tex socks, but never used them. It was warm enough that I decided wet feet were OK.

Mountaineering boots would be nice, but on many of the climbs you'd need to carry them in your pack.