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 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bug Squad 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sherm the Verm
Page Views: 1,234
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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My transition from laying back to jamming.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the obvious layback crack immediately right of Max Factor. Prepare for wild, insecure barndoor moves with your feet at an old fixed pin. Other than that, this is a gem. Most people will layback the rounded edge of the flake-crack; however it can be climbed straight-on, jamming in the flared crack...very technical but probably more secure and safer.

Apparently the second pin was added after the first ascent, it is still a bit exhilarating with both fixed pins in place. The upper crack is tedious, thin, and technical; a person with yams for fingers may even call it 5.11. Probably TR'd most of the time, it is a worthy lead.

Protection 

The crux is sketch-city, 2 fixed pins and little else. Get some gear in below the first pin at the horizontal break. A mediocre yellow metolius backs up the first pin. The upper part is protected with wireds to 1 or 2 inch cams. Chain anchors. You can TR this by climbing the 5.9 to the right, Baalbek.


Photos of Bug Squad Slideshow Add Photo
In the sketchy bits.  Yes, I've got rope issues.  Think I was a bit occupied. Thanks Col and Staci.  Taken July '05.
In the sketchy bits. Yes, I've got rope issues. ...

Comments on Bug Squad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Thom Engelbach
May 20, 2003

You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.
By Jesse Ryan
Aug 18, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering. I can't tell you what falling off of Bug Squad might feel like.
By lenore sparks
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Mr. Engelbach, I love you. That is obvious. However, I finally redpointed this today, a cold, semi-humid day, and it still felt hard.
By doze
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Wouldn't call it R. I backed up first pin by red c3 and purple Linkcam. Probably some yellow-green Alien offset would work instead of a Linkcam. Both are bomber pieces. Second pin backed up by green Linkcam. It was a blind placement that turned out very solid. Probably 0.5 BD or 0.75 would do the trick as well. And the second pin looks like it's actually gonna hold a fall. For me, the upper section was way more exciting but still very well protectable.
Excellent memorable climb anyway.