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My transition from laying back to jamming.
This is the obvious layback crack immediately right of Max Factor. Prepare for wild, insecure barndoor moves with your feet at an old fixed pin. Other than that, this is a gem. Most people will layback the rounded edge of the flake-crack; however it can be climbed straight-on, jamming in the flared crack...very technical but probably more secure and safer.
Apparently the second pin was added after the first ascent, it is still a bit exhilarating with both fixed pins in place. The upper crack is tedious, thin, and technical; a person with yams for fingers may even call it 5.11. Probably TR'd most of the time, it is a worthy lead.
The crux is sketch-city, 2 fixed pins and little else. Get some gear in below the first pin at the horizontal break. A mediocre yellow metolius backs up the first pin. The upper part is protected with wireds to 1 or 2 inch cams. Chain anchors. You can TR this by climbing the 5.9 to the right, Baalbek.
In the sketchy bits. Yes, I've got rope issues. ...
|By Thom Engelbach|
May 20, 2003
You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.
|By Jesse Ryan|
Aug 18, 2006
rating: 5.11d R
Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering. I can't tell you what falling off of Bug Squad might feel like.
|By lenore sparks|
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Sep 6, 2008
Mr. Engelbach, I love you. That is obvious. However, I finally redpointed this today, a cold, semi-humid day, and it still felt hard.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d PG13
Wouldn't call it R. I backed up first pin by red c3 and purple Linkcam. Probably some yellow-green Alien offset would work instead of a Linkcam. Both are bomber pieces. Second pin backed up by green Linkcam. It was a blind placement that turned out very solid. Probably 0.5 BD or 0.75 would do the trick as well. And the second pin looks like it's actually gonna hold a fall. For me, the upper section was way more exciting but still very well protectable.
Excellent memorable climb anyway.