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Bug Barn Dance Wall

Routes Sorted
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Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 
Cambrian Grey S 
Darkness at Seven S 
Desperate Land S 
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 
Lacy Doggie Panties S 
Looking For A Legacy S 
Necrobeastiality S 
Raid S 
Redneck Genocide S 
Squid Orgy S 
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 

Bug Barn Dance Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.2652, -111.6135 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,148
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 31, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Bug Barn Dance Wall.
1 Squid Orgy 5.11a
2 [[105...

Description 

The Bug Barn Dance Wall is one of the excellent, moderate limestone crags in the canyon. It holds close to a dozen routes all between 5.9 and 5.11.

The approach is easy, unlike some of the limestone crags in Rock Canyon, and the walk up is a nice hike. Once at the base, you will pass some chossy rock before arriving at the main face, a south- and west-facing affair with a complex roof system in the middle.

Most routes climb on good edges, all are bolted, and eight to ten draws will suffice for everything on the wall. Overall: an excellent crag composed of good, solid limestone, and well-protected throughout.


Getting There 

BBDW sits about a mile up from the Rock Canyon parking, 100 yds past the water fountain on the right, and on the north side of the canyon. The crag just about reaches the stream and lies opposite the Bosko Wall.


Climbing Season


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bug Barn Dance Wall:
Looking For A Legacy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches   
Suicidal Yet Depraved   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bosko Loves Barbed Wire   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Cambrian Grey   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Desperate Land   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Squid Orgy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Raid   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Necrobeastiality   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 105'   
Redneck Genocide   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 105'   
Browse More Classics in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Featured Route For Bug Barn Dance Wall
Caleb just above the first roof and crux

Raid 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Bug Barn Dance Wall
The crux is getting past the opening roof. Feels harder than it is. Just commit! Really solid. Once, you get past the crux, is really moderate. Don't skip this route....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Bug Barn Dance Wall
Photos of Bug Barn Dance Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Bug Barn Dance Wall on Feb 04, 2006. View from across the canyon (south side), uphill a hundred feet or so from the trail.
BETA PHOTO: Bug Barn Dance Wall on Feb 04, 2006. View from acr...
11 Dark at Seven 5.9
BETA PHOTO: 11 Dark at Seven 5.9
Comments on Bug Barn Dance Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bad Sock Puppet
Aug 23, 2008

Good limestone wall with lots of moderate climbs. The concensus was that most of the routes where harder then what they where rated as in the guidebook. Lots of crimpy stuff. I don't usually like slab, but the rock here is super great for smearing. Best to do in colder temperatures or in the morning, cause the rock heats up quick in the afternoon sun.

By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
May 25, 2010

This is my favorite wall in the canyon. Flat and shaded belay areas, great rock, all exciting climbs, and I have rarely run into other groups at this wall. Definitely worth spending a few mornings here.

By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
Apr 11, 2013

I'm curious... How did this crag get its name? Does anyone know?

By Tim Moore
May 13, 2014

Having climbed all over rock canyon. Literally all over in search of sun or shade or a great belay spot or no people and consistent routes this is my favorite. It is a little ways up there and I have never seen anyone there ever. The routes are some of the best in rock canyon. The rock is awesome. Majority .10 and .11s Fun roofs, crimps, large jugs, ledges, it has everything except maybe crack climbing. Great shade spot to belay in along almost the entire wall. The upper two thirds of the wall will be in the sun past about noon so it gets kinda hot during the summer time. Not that many bugs really so I don't know why it's named thus. A must check out for the canyon