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The Buzzard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arbor Day 
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer 
Buzzard Bait 
Buzzard Breath 
Drop Zone 
On the Wings of Buzzards 
Rip Cord 
Smooth as Silk 
Super Smooth 
Tail Feathers 
Where Buzzards Dare 

Buffy the Buzzard Slayer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michael Crowder and Russell Sagon, 1996
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 8, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Currahee - Buffy the Buzzard Slayer

Description 

A bouldery move gets you to a stance below the roof. Reach out and clip the second bolt, then pull the overhang onto the slab above. Continue past a short, dirty crack system, a bolt, and a tree to the high roof. Pull the roof at the left end(?) and continue to the top.


Location 

Look for a low bolt (can just reach it from the ground) on the face of the Buzzard Wall below the left end of an overhang.


Protection 

mixed route, 3 bolts, anchors at top



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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009

This is a fairly well protected lead for the middle section of Buzzard Wall (hope your tall). This one also stays dry. The upper slab crux is exciting. I up-downed that move several times before I grab my balls. Clip the bolt pull the roof for some added pump.

By Homer Patterson
Dec 12, 2011

After pulling the roof I put in a #1 C4 in the dirty crack then saw the bolt to the right which was at the bottom of a line of 3 bolts. Was this line for On the Wings of Buzzards or is there a second line that is not mentioned here or in the book? It appears that the Wings line steps right after pulling the roof. Then after the last bolt it was unclear whether to go right to the Smooth as Silk anchors (lots of lichen) or left to the Where Buzzards Dare anchors. Felt better to see to 10c rating on the description here. More accurate to me than 10 in the book.