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Buffalo Pit
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffalo Chips T 
Buffalo Crack T 
Buffalo soldiers  S 
Nicely Stacked T 
Rainy Day T 
Something Fishy T 

Buffalo soldiers  

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim shimberg
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the freshly cleaned line

Description 

A tricky tough roof to a technical crimpy face.
If this was at a popular cliff it would be very well traveled.
With its current lack of traffic it gets quite over grown. I trimmed a couple of branches that blocked it and scrubbed the harder parts of the route really well

Location 

Middle left area of the cliff. The only line with bolts.

Protection 

Bolts and a pin.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 8, 2014

Nice, Lee! I hiked down that way about a month ago, scoping possible trail routes from the Pit to the NWT for if the FS buys this area and was thinking the crag could really use a good trim and cleaning. There are some really interesting features there. I thought that Rainy Day route looked well worth a scrub.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2014

yeah, it needs a good bit of work but i have a few lines i've been looking at for years up there.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 10, 2014

Wait long enough and Chris will turn them into classics :D (California Chrome)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 10, 2014

Are you making jibes at Lee's cleaning standards? ;)
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 11, 2014

Naw. We've been talking about the rock left of Bbbuttress for years now. :) I'm just happy to see anyone put in the effort to clean it up.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks Lee for cleaning Buffalo Soldiers. That allowed me to send it.
I almost poo my pants doing the top out. I never saw the old pin. Man I didn't want to fall...
Too bad this route is stuck in a jungle.
It is not worth going to this crag in its current condition.
I am not a trad climber but I have lots of friends that are trad climbers and none of them will trad climb in Rumney. Fragile rock, very short lines, lichen, moss, vegetation...
Thanks to Mark Sprague for bolting Misdemeanor at Meadows.
So many other routes would get a second life if they were bolted because there would be traffic and the routes would stay clean. It would also help the trad climbers.
As for the purists (which I respect a lot) who don't want to see bolts, well there is the Gunks and so many other destination with great trad climbing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 23, 2014

NICE! i still havent gotten out to do it and get my draws off of it) since i cleaned it. I'll have to do that soon... i have only been on the bottom of the route, should i bring gear for the upper secton, i couldnt see where the anchor was.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

No need to bring gear Lee. Everything you need is there. The only reason I did the run out from your locking carabiner to the top is that I was spooked of falling there. I hate slab falls but it is even worst when there is a roof just below... After I clipped the anchor, I cleaned the plateau a bit on which you have to mantel. I did the best I could with my hands. I also removed a lot of big lichen or mushroom flaky stuff that was hiding a few key holds including the piton that I didn't see on my send. That's all you need to clip just to give you enough confidence to top out. Don't launch to the shelf from too low. It is kind of slabby but if you go high enough on your feet, you will see two spots for your hands that is just what you need to exit. The anchor will be right there. Cool little one!!!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 25, 2014

thanks for the beta :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 13, 2014

Got around to doing this one yesterday and collecting the draws I left up when I cleaned it...
I didn't see the piton either and I had climbed past it until I was about to try topping out and my foot bumped it... I reached down to clip it and made the last move...
Happy to say I've climbed all the routes at the cliff now :)
This one is actually really nice and so is buffalo crack in my opinion... You could do them both in a nice 2 pitch line...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The only reason I gave just one star to Buffalo Crack is because of the unpleasant acces via either of the 5.7 (too much vegetation). Other than this, really cool climb. Just too short.
Good idea to access it via Buffalo Soldier.
Lee, I think my partner screwed up doing the finish of BC.
After the offwidth rest, he got to a grassy ramp on the right and followed it for about 40 feet to a big dead tree. He must have missed the finish.
Damn! I'll have to go back...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 13, 2014

awww sorry to hear you missed the end of BC i remember really liking that part.