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Buffalo Soldier 

5.12c

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
FA: (TR) Mike Lechlinksi, FL: Scott Cosgrove, November 1987
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Jan 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Buffalo Soldier topo

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Description 

A very crimpy crux down low, leads to easier, but not by much, climbing via shallow (but good) scares/face holds towards the top. A short jog left near the top finishes. The rock quality is not on par with some of the other routes on this wall (at least when I worked it in 1996). Not often done.


Location 

This is the last route on the far righthand side of the wall (although there is appears to a bolted route right of it, unknown)


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor



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By Randy
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c

Route is rated 12c. You might want to bring a couple pieces to supplement the bolts (in the crack above 2nd bolt). The other bolted routes to the right are in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West).

One star of 4 or barely 2 stars of 5.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c

Not a classic but the moves are good and definitely in your face. The crux is a horrendous gaston move down low but there's still some trickery above. Two stars out of five.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009

RV, I thought I saw a bolt or three just a few feet right of BS, on the same rock (not the rock that has Take the Pain) but I'll double check next time I'm out there.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c

There's a 5.10a route with 2 bolts not too far right of this route which could be what you're thinking of.