Like charlie Brown's Christmas tree, "All it needs is a little love".
So this cliff see's fewer ascents than some junk piles in the local scrap yard but with some cleaning I feel like it could be a worth while cliff and could host another 10 or so routes. Why would anyone bother when all the nice clean cliffs at the popular areas are right up the street? Well I don't know, and so far no one else has seen a reason to take care of it either but it is a good place to practice moderate trad climbing, there is one 2 star 5.10 trad route and a nice 5.11 sport climb that has started to collect lichen from under use. The potential would not make this a huge destination among the competition but it is a 1 min hike from the road and has some solid rock waiting to be climbed.
I dont know the current situation as far as access and ownership so if you do check it out please be respectful.
Drive past the parking lots at the main areas and continue for about a mile. You go past some rock on your right and a little further there is a small pull off and you can see the cliff when the leaves are off the trees. No real trail right now but it is an easy bushwack to the base.
Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. Yeah this crag in it's current condition is a bomb for the most part but This route is well worth the side trip if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.Pitch 1: Whatever you want to get to the ledge haha. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the cra...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
When looking up from the road the is a "cove" of rock to the right of the main section of Buffalo Pit. It isn't a tall area but there is a two bolt sport climb on the left side of the cove and potential slab climbs on the right side. Does anyone know about this sport route? It climbs a blunt arete and maybe 25 feet tall, maybe a little shorter...
This weekend, I climbed my last two routes at this crag and to be honest, the only one worth going for is the 11d sport route. The 10c would also be good if it was not from the vegetated ramps on the approaches or the lack of anchor to lower down. We rappelled from a dead tree. Sketchy!!! Unless a few braves gives this crag a lot, a lot and a lot of love, it cut be used as a garden to grow plants and trees...