Like charlie Brown's Christmas tree, "All it needs is a little love".
So this cliff see's fewer ascents than some junk piles in the local scrap yard but with some cleaning I feel like it could be a worth while cliff and could host another 10 or so routes. Why would anyone bother when all the nice clean cliffs at the popular areas are right up the street? Well I don't know, and so far no one else has seen a reason to take care of it either but it is a good place to practice moderate trad climbing, there is one 2 star 5.10 trad route and a nice 5.11 sport climb that has started to collect lichen from under use. The potential would not make this a huge destination among the competition but it is a 1 min hike from the road and has some solid rock waiting to be climbed.
I dont know the current situation as far as access and ownership so if you do check it out please be respectful.
Drive past the parking lots at the main areas and continue for about a mile. You go past some rock on your right and a little further there is a small pull off and you can see the cliff when the leaves are off the trees. No real trail right now but it is an easy bushwack to the base.
The most obvious route at the cliff. At the right end of the crag look for a pretty (yet a little dirty) right facing corner.Climb the corner stemming and jamming with good protection. Move over or around the small roof to a roomy ledge. Walk right about 20 feet and climb another nice wall with a finger crack in it. This leads to a very easy but fun slab with cracks in it and on to the trees at the top.The 2 stars i gave it might only be fully warranted if the route was clean (which its not righ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
When looking up from the road the is a "cove" of rock to the right of the main section of Buffalo Pit. It isn't a tall area but there is a two bolt sport climb on the left side of the cove and potential slab climbs on the right side. Does anyone know about this sport route? It climbs a blunt arete and maybe 25 feet tall, maybe a little shorter...