Buffalo Creek Spire South Face  A0

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Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  A0 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Dave Kesonie on Feb 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The better of two aid routes on this little spire. The South Face is lichen-free, dead vertical, and the bolt studs are still okay.

Location 

Start on the north side access crack which is a short two-move handcrack that lands you on the big ledge that skirts the whole spire. Walk/crawl to the west past the start of the original aid route which now goes free at 5.10a. Keep going counterclockwise around the spire to the South Face. You will need to climb a few moves up a wide crack to the top of a boulder. From the top of this large boulder at the base of the South Face, you can easily reach the first bolt.

Protection 

The bolts are just studs - bring about 7 rivet hangers or small wired stoppers to clip them. There are bomber anchors on top.