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Buffalo Rock
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Buffalo Crack T 

Buffalo Crack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Desert Rat Brigade 2003 FFA: Daniel Max Christiansen, Brooks Mason 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: Daniel Max Christiansen on Jun 18, 2010

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This is what I get for thrashing around in the Buf...

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  • Description 

    Very sustained 5.10 climbing as the crack is slightly overhung. This is a very seldom-climbed route so, though the crack is very bomber, it is sandy in parts. Short but sweet with an interesting rappel (see protection) in an incredibly beautiful, quiet part of the park.


    Buffalo Crack is located on the west side of Buffalo Rock


    Standard desert rack, the crack takes mostly #1 and #0.5 cams. The anchor consists of two dicey petons pounded into a chausy layer on the left-hand side of the notch at the top, so bring larger (#3, #4) cams to back it up at the base of the notch if belaying from the top.

    The best (and safest) way to climb the route is to lead it, top out, and clip in. Then have the leader lower the rope off of the opposite side of the fin so it is essentially folded over it. Have the belayer put the 'rope' back on belay from the crack side of the fin, and finally have the leader rappel off of the belayers body weight off of the opposite side.

    Comments on Buffalo Crack Add Comment
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    By broppler
    From: Oakland
    Mar 10, 2013

    By mutgoff
    Mar 10, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Sandbagged, but worth the hike.

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