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Buffalo Rock
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Buffalo Crack 

Buffalo Crack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Desert Rat Brigade 2003 FFA: Daniel Max Christiansen, Brooks Mason 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Daniel Max Christiansen on Jun 18, 2010
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This is what I get for thrashing around in the Buf...
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Very sustained 5.10 climbing as the crack is slightly overhung. This is a very seldom-climbed route so, though the crack is very bomber, it is sandy in parts. Short but sweet with an interesting rappel (see protection) in an incredibly beautiful, quiet part of the park.


Location 

Buffalo Crack is located on the west side of Buffalo Rock


Protection 

Standard desert rack, the crack takes mostly #1 and #0.5 cams. The anchor consists of two dicey petons pounded into a chausy layer on the left-hand side of the notch at the top, so bring larger (#3, #4) cams to back it up at the base of the notch if belaying from the top.

The best (and safest) way to climb the route is to lead it, top out, and clip in. Then have the leader lower the rope off of the opposite side of the fin so it is essentially folded over it. Have the belayer put the 'rope' back on belay from the crack side of the fin, and finally have the leader rappel off of the belayers body weight off of the opposite side.



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By broppler
From: Oakland
Mar 10, 2013

mid-dees.

By mutgoff
Mar 10, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Sandbagged, but worth the hike.