Buff the Wood 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Moll - 1994 |
| Submitted By: | Paul Corsaro on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Description Amazing bouldery route. Boulder through edges and fingerlocks to a crack. Take a quick rest at the crack and moveout to some crimps. Make a big deadpoint to a crimp rail, follwed by another huge move to a monster jug. Shake out and climb through some moderate climbing to a boulder problem on pockets. Cruise to the anchors.
Location On the Buckeye Buttress section of the Lode. Far left side. Obvious fingercrack about 15 feet up.
Protection 5 Bolts plus anchors
| Comments on Buff the Wood |
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By jedidiah
Nov 9, 2012
| This climb is great! Off the ground to the second bolt puts you throuugh some good crimping to a not so good shake for the first crux . Long reaches to small crimps to set up for a big throw to the first rest . The jugs to the next crux flow well into a good shared rest with stain( if your pumped clip from here). The next crux can be done more ways than one but all seemed just as hard. End on jugs to the chains.
Really fun and not that pumpy ( you get a lot back in the rests)
Personal opinion harder then stain . |
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