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The Diedre Area
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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 2,729
Submitted By: john strand on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Not the best photo, but a small glimpse of the top...


BRILLIANT !!! I think one of the top 5 pitches on the cliff. The crux is the last 15'. Originally 10+

Start up 5.9-ish hands in a bit of a groove, this rapidly goes to thin hands and fingers. Get good rests with some small footholds (I also also remember one really good rest) and remember Ed & Jimmie 28 years ago in EBs. The crux is hard to hang in and protect but takes good gear -- small wires and RPs. Take a couple of whips and then set up a belay on a small stance. Lower down a little to see your second struggle.

There used to be a good viewing spot right on the road to watch people whipping on this, but it has probably grown over now.


Do the first 2-3 pitches depending on linking then blast straight up the obvious crack


Good all the way thinning to small wires at the end.

Comments on Budapest Add Comment
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 6, 2008

Mark Synott sprayed me down on it a little but the most useful thing he said was that you should save a purple camalot for just before the crux then punch it to the top... I haven't done it yet but i was pissed i didn't get to it this season...
By CCliffe
Jun 16, 2011

i agree with the description. definitely top 5 pitches. you can rap back down to the staring ledge (top diedre's 3rd pitch) with a 60m. this route is a gem
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
May 20, 2013

Doesn't anybody have any photos of this thing? Will have to remedy this situation.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 20, 2013

too pumped.. even belaying
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Aug 4, 2013

Funny 'cuz it's true. Now I understand...
By Greg Murphy
Oct 15, 2014

Fabulous route with a crux at the last move. One of the best at Cathedral.
By Lucas79
From: Asheville, NC
May 17, 2015

Is there anyone who's put up more time tested classics in this country than Jimmie Dunn? Guy sure knew how to pick 'em....this thing is a gem.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 17, 2015

Every....move....gets....harder....until....the...............veryend!!!! Phew! Did it back in the mid 80's. Hung. Got up it anyway. Spoiler...... as I remember the last jam is left hand, pinkie down.
By shoo
Nov 8, 2015

AMAZING route.

For those seeking to skip the first 3 pitches of Dierdre (which are often soaked), there is another way. You can rappel roughly 55m into the Budapest anchor (same as the anchor at the end of guidebook pitch 3 for Deirdre) via a marked tree at the top of the cliff. The tree is currently marked with a yellow piece of webbing on one of its branches on the cliffside path, roughly 25m climber's left of where Dierdre ends

If using this tree, Budapest starts roughly 10m to climber's left of where this line naturally falls. You can get to the belay either by walking leftward down the wide crack / ramp when you get to the normal Deirdre ramp while rappelling (that you would normally use to go to the last pitch of Deirdre) or by setting an intermediate redirectional anchor well to the left before you go over the bulge, directly above the final crux move on Deirdre (recommended if you know what you're looking for). There may be a better tree to rappel off of that takes a more direct line to Budapest, but I can't personally vouch for it.

Rack: BD size #0.3-#3, doubles 1 and 2 is handy. Anchor at bottom takes medium offset nuts and/or small cams (0.2-0.3ish). Pro is good all the way. PM for gear beta if you want it.

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