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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Buckspeck 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dingus & TLPW
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 23, 2008

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Description 

A pretty good pitch, but given the abundance of truly classic lines nearby and some suspect rock, I'll call it merely good.

The pitch follows about 15 bolts up an off-vertical face and an arete. The crux is midway, after the only bolt on the right side of the arete; this section is a little spicey -- the bolt is at your feet after you pull the crux but there is still a body length of insecure moves to get to the next bolt. If you are under about 5'10", you might find the bolt after this one placed just out of reach from the obvious clipping stance. After the crux, the climbing eases off somewhat until you reach a ledge where you might expect to find anchors, only to find four more bolts (happily, more closely spaced) on an imposingly blank slab; fear not, this secondary crux is not as featureless as it first appears.

Descent: 50+ meter rap from two bolts.

Location 

This shady pitch is a few cracks right of Belle Fourche Buttress. A picture would be worth at least 1000 of my words here -- consult a guidebook for the exact location of the pitch. The best way to get to the route is to go to Teacher's ledge and then traverse easily almost straight left to the start keeping an eye out for poison ivy. Identify the route by its bolts, rack up and then scramble up about 15' to a bush where you belay from.

Protection 

At least 15 QDs and long runners. I brought a light rack but only placed one piece, an unnecessary yellow Alien; there are virtually no other placement opportunities any where else where you might want additional gear.

A large nut and a finger size cam (~ .4 Camalot) are needed to establish a belay at the start.


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By TomKingsbury
Oct 11, 2008

with all of the classics that dingus has established, this route just doesn't fit the standard. a shame of a route really. with the crux having the largest run-out, maybe only 15 feet, and then stances above where you can clip two bolts with out moving...wtf.

was thinking it was only done to piss off the park service? maybe

loose rock, that seems to be getting looser....

-patrick kingsbury