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Sunshine Wall
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Buckshot 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Reveley & Mark "Buck" Norden, early 1970s
Page Views: 2,264
Submitted By: tobias on Feb 21, 2004

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Buckshot on the right. The handcrack of the last p...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the top of the trail to Sunshine Wall, head left past two short vertical cracks (the base of Squatter's Rights). Past these, you'll see a newer one-pitch bolted line angling up right with a two-bolt anchor. Walk up into the bushy gully behind another 40 feet to the base of Buckshot. Squish on the left angles up left and into the noticeable off-width, 40 feet up. Buckshot is on the right in something of a dihedral. To its right is a large chimney. Above you can see a dihedral and the obvious handcrack of Buckshot's third pitch to its right.

P1: head straight up. The 10a (right)/10c (left) variations present themselves at the overhanging block 60 feet up. Look for the knee lock up underneath on the left for a rest. Great varied climbing including stemming, arm locks, vertical finger cracks, jamming, and a mantel just past the crux. (This pitch is in the shade in the winter--hands might get a tad cool.) Belay on top of the block by the old red webbing, or continue up and left to combine the first two pitches, to another good ledge (in the sun!) 30 feet up.

P2: "We Scared O' de Goofa Man" heads right up a low angle gully type thing; you want to cross over and up to the left. Jam the short crack and gain the "perfect" South Platte belay spot.

P3: Not the dihedral above, but the body-wide ramp to the right that angles up to the vertical handcrack. Use passive pro while the climbing is easier to save your mid-size and larger cams for what waits above--hard, sustained jamming. In our estimation, this was clearly the hardest climbing of the route, several grades more challenging, strenous, and sustained than the 10c crux of the first pitch. However, the Hubbel/Rolofson guide has it listed at 10a. After 20 feet or so, it relents toward an easier angle. Continue up to the top.

Walk off the back, picking your way down a gully. There's a single necessary rappel from a pine on the right next to a big slab. The slings are a bit dicey.

Protection 

Pro to 4", extra 2"-4"


Photos of Buckshot Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the first pitch.
Looking up the first pitch.
Before the difficulties on the last pitch.
Before the difficulties on the last pitch.
Grappling with the crux of the first pitch.
Grappling with the crux of the first pitch.
Shane looking up at the bad-ass handcrack of pitch...
Shane looking up at the bad-ass handcrack of pitch...
At the end of the 1st pitch (middle of our 1st pit...
At the end of the 1st pitch (middle of our 1st pit...
Another view. Fun route.
Another view. Fun route.
Looking relaxed.
Looking relaxed.

Comments on Buckshot Add Comment
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By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Feb 23, 2004

Strenuous right out of the gate with finger jams, hand jams, stemming, and awkward body positioning getting over the boulder at the top of the first pitch. (Do this route in the summer as your fingers will get very cold!)

Pitch two consisted of steep armbar to fist jams which felt a bit overhanging with no rests. Look for a slung Wildcountry Rock with blue webbing that I could not get out. This pitch ended with great hand jams and easier climbing to the top.
By Tom Hayes
Sep 12, 2004

Great route. A #3 Camalot is also useful. I also combined the 1st 2 pitches with not problem. The last pitch felt 10c to me also...steep for a good section after going over the roof.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Dec 18, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a nice route. Cool chimney-ish moves up the v-slot. I didn't go right, but I gotta say there is no way that going left over the block on p1 is harder than 10a. I didn't look at the topo when we fired off on this one and, had to ask my partner if that was 9+ or so. . . Link pitch 1&2 for a great time and much better belay ledge. Pitch 2 is definitely harder, but if you can climb crack, then it's not too bad, I'd say 10a is a fair grade. It's kinda wide (cupped) hand for me and is definitely steep.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Sep 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Be careful of rope drag linking pitches 1 & 2. We did the right hand variation on pitch one which is a little awkward and strenuous for a move or two moving over the block. Pitch three takes a perfect blue Camalot from the start of the crux thru where it kicks back to 5.8. It felt 9+ to me, steep but perfect cupped hands available the whole way.
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Aug 24, 2009

I stayed left in the descent gully and didn't need to rap.
By Chris Reveley
Oct 31, 2009

Mark "Buck" Norden and I did the first ascent of this route sometime in the early '70s. Burdened with lots of big hexes, some tube chocks and other worthless stuff, I remember a real fight. Buck worked hard for this one, too. Arriving at the belay after the crux, he thanked me for not giving him tension at his moment of greatest suffering and despair. I was always impressed by that. He was a great climbing partner; serious, focused and always ready to give it everything he had.
By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route. Doing this in two pitches is easy with a bit of attention to rope drag on P1. If it's near your limit, triple #3 Camalots would not be a bad idea for P2. Neither would tape.....
An old size #4 was good to have on both pitches.
And most importantly, if you plan to rap the route to the climbers' left (Squash? three raps w/one rope), bring a knife and some cord or webbing to spruce up the anchors. There's a ton of old and faded stuff up there that needs to be cut away and replaced. Wish I could have, but I didn't have any with me.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2013

I updated the webbing on all of the raps. The old tat is gone and now is 1" tubular webbing.

In retrospect, I didn't do it the best way though, as the slings are tied directly through the hangers on the bolts and nuts on many of the raps. As such it's best to go in direct to the rap rings (w extended backup to the bolts) instead of going to the bolts directly, so your weighted biners don't cut the slings against the hangers.

Cheers,
Clayton

FYI, on the first rap you go rappers left form the slab onto the flat ledge with some rocks on it, the first anchor is over towards the lip, and you won't see it from the climb.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of today, the webbing on the raps still looked "ok". The first rap is from three fixed nuts. The second is from one bolt and two nuts. The third is from two bolts. You can place a #4 Camalot or two on the second pitch.
By Kevin Presley
From: Loveland
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first pitch I felt was harder than the last pitch, if you know how to crack climb, I guess. Not fists for me, big cupped hands and slightly overhanging. The first pitch throws it all at you: fingers, hands, chimney stuff, and weird body positioning to pull left around the big block. Super fun. Looks easy from the ground, but I think every route looks that way. We brought three #3s and two #4s (Camalots) and used all of them.