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Buck's Bar Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adhesion 
Amazing Chimney 
Awful Width 
Bat Crack Left 
Bat Crack Right 
Bat Roof 
Bat Roof Direct 
Beginner's Cracks 
Candy Corn Boulder 
Chamberlin's Chimney 
Dan's Delight 
Dinkum 
Drastical 
Dreamer 
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse 
Fingerprint 
Fly or Die 
Great Chimney 
Khazad Arete 
Knob Job 
Lap Dancing 
Live and Learn 
Magic Beans 
Mangler 
Nightmare 
Palm Beach 
Planned Obsolescence 
Pod, The 
Popcorn 
Squeeze Cheeze 
Test Piece 
Training Pants 
Triscuit Rock 
Unconquerable 
Unconquerable-Tunnel Through 
Whatchamadigit Crack 

Buck's Bar Dome 


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Location: 38.6489, -120.70645 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,261
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 28, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Buck's Bar Dome (Main Area) and Great ...

Description 

This traditional section of Cosumnes River Gorge is a shorter version of the larger Gutenberger wall across the way. This area features cracks and face climbs from 20 - 50 feet in length that are almost all traditional routes, with some tougher top rope options available as well. Difficulty ranges from 5.1 -5.12, depending on what you're looking for. You will also find an abundance of chimneys on Bucks Bar Dome, which are all quite fun.

This is a great place to be in the afternoon when the areas move into the shade.

All routes can be lowered off or walked off, depending on your preference.


Getting There 

From the path directions for the area, this is the first rock that you come to down the path. As you head down the path you will come across the un-indentifiable top of the dome. You canwalk to the edge here where you will find top anchors and rappel, or you can walk around the far side (about 100 yards) and walk down the path. As the path heads down to the stream in a small gully, you will find the cracks of Buck's Bar Dome to your left.


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',10],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buck's Bar Dome:
Beginner's Cracks   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Amazing Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Magic Beans   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Unconquerable   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Live and Learn   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Chamberlin's Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     TR, 30'   
Squeeze Cheeze   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Test Piece   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Drastical   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 30'   
Bat Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Mangler   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Dinkum   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fly or Die   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Adhesion   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Fingerprint   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Buck's Bar Dome

Featured Route For Buck's Bar Dome
The Pod follows the most obvious crack and chimney features in the picture (right of the rope).

The Pod 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : ... : Buck's Bar Dome
Climb a few moves up the right side of the blocks at the bottom of Dinkum wall to get a ledge, then use the crack at the back to jam your way up and around the large formation on the right. Then an easy scramble to the top anchors. Lower down for more fun in the Areta Franklin chimney!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Buck's Bar Dome
Photos of Buck's Bar Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resolution version. <br /> <br />(1) Planned Obsolescence (5.8), <br />(2) Blue Ballet (5.10+), <br />(3) Dreamer (5.10+), <br />(4) Nightmare (5.12), <br />(5) Toe Dancing (5.11), <br />(6) Dinkum (5.9), <br />(7) Lap Dancing (5.10d), <br />(8) Fox Trot (5.10d)
BETA PHOTO: Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resoluti...
Great Chimney Area (Left). Click for High Resolution version. <br /> <br />(1) Bat Crack Left (5.10+), <br />(2) Bat Crack Right (5.10+), <br />(3) Bat Roof (5.9), <br />(4) Bat Roof Direct (5.11) <br /> <br />The Great Chimney (5.4) stems between the right and left walls. The 20' tall Triscuit Rock can be seen on the right-hand side of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Great Chimney Area (Left). Click for High Resoluti...
BETA PHOTO
not-to-scale overview
BETA PHOTO: not-to-scale overview
Comments on Buck's Bar Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By Preston Havill
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 27, 2013

Just climbed at Buck's Bar for the first time and it was very enjoyable. I just wanted to say that you should not let the fact that this is a mostly top rope area fool you into being casual as you approach the top rope anchors from above the dome. If you plan to climb Unconquerable or any of the Bat Crack lines, it would not be unwise to set up a natural anchor from a tree (maybe 30-40' from the anchors) above the dome as you approach from the main trail, if for nothing else then just for balance as you descend. The last few feet is a little sketchy and bare. I set up the anchors anyways without protection from above, but I can see how a party expecting a casual day of top-roping might be surprised to find that the walk down to those anchors is a climb in itself, exposed too. The approaches to the anchors for Test Piece and Beginner Cracks are safer and have a nice big ledge to clip the bolts from. We also packed out a surprising amount of trash, cans, butts, as well as several tags from metolius and black diamond products, obviously left by climbers. Looking forward to frequenting this crag when I visit my family in California.

By sulli
From: Lake Tahoe, Ca
Feb 12, 2014

For anyone pondering, like I did, whether you can just throw down a pad and boulder these short lines, ... the answer is; not really. These lines, despite being short, are not boulder problems. If you climb here without a rope, these are free solos. The landings are sketchy, a ground fall here will likely result in something broken. And falling from some of the stuff further down into the canyon could result in one literally rolling into the river and being washed away.
Bring a rope and a partner :)