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Buck's Bar Dome

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Dinkum Gulley 
Great Flake 
Main Area 

Buck's Bar Dome Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.64907, -120.7067 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,769
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 28, 2003
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This traditional section of Cosumnes River Gorge is a shorter version of the larger Gutenberger wall across the way. This area features cracks and face climbs from 20 - 50 feet in length that are almost all traditional routes, with some tougher top rope options available as well. Difficulty ranges from 5.1 -5.12, depending on what you're looking for. You will also find an abundance of chimneys on Bucks Bar Dome, which are all quite fun.

This is a great place to be in the afternoon when the areas move into the shade.

All routes can be lowered off or walked off, depending on your preference.

Getting There 

From the path directions for the area, this is the first rock that you come to down the path. As you head down the path you will come across the un-indentifiable top of the dome. You canwalk to the edge here where you will find top anchors and rappel, or you can walk around the far side (about 100 yards) and walk down the path. As the path heads down to the stream in a small gully, you will find the cracks of Buck's Bar Dome to your left.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

38 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Buck's Bar Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Buck's Bar Dome:
Amazing Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Dinkum Gulley
Magic Beans   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 50'   Dinkum Gulley
Live and Learn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Great Flake
Chamberlin's Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Squeeze Cheeze   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 30'   Main Area
Test Piece   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Unconquerable   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Drastical   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 30'   Dinkum Gulley
Mangler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Great Flake
Knob Job   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 30'   Dinkum Gulley
Bat Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Dinkum   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Dinkum Gulley
Triscuit Rock   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 20'   Main Area
Fly or Die   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Area
Adhesion   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Bat Crack Left   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 40'   Main Area
Bat Roof Direct   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 35'   Main Area
Fingerprint   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Area
Nightmare   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Dinkum Gulley
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Buck's Bar Dome

Featured Route For Buck's Bar Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the roof. Excellent route, and not ...

Robin's Attic 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Dinkum Gulley
At the very back of the chimney, a few feet past Batman Can't Fly, start up the right side of a massive wedged rock and traverse all the way out left under the roof to a wild downward flaring exit. Clip gear plenty long. Top roping would be problematic, without leading it and protecting the second. Listed as 10+ in the 1997 Cottrell Guide....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Buck's Bar Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By superglue
From: Sacramento
May 29, 2016
Classic mustake. Left a set of 3 bd lockers with green gear marking tape up on anchors to the far left on buckbar dome. The anchor is made with two green edelrid slings. Feel free to use it if needed. But please contact me if you find these. I will buy you a beer!!!!!
By Preston H
From: my car
Oct 27, 2013
Just climbed at Buck's Bar for the first time and it was very enjoyable. I just wanted to say that you should not let the fact that this is a mostly top rope area fool you into being casual as you approach the top rope anchors from above the dome. If you plan to climb Unconquerable or any of the Bat Crack lines, it would not be unwise to set up a natural anchor from a tree (maybe 30-40' from the anchors) above the dome as you approach from the main trail, if for nothing else then just for balance as you descend. The last few feet is a little sketchy and bare. I set up the anchors anyways without protection from above, but I can see how a party expecting a casual day of top-roping might be surprised to find that the walk down to those anchors is a climb in itself, exposed too. The approaches to the anchors for Test Piece and Beginner Cracks are safer and have a nice big ledge to clip the bolts from. We also packed out a surprising amount of trash, cans, butts, as well as several tags from metolius and black diamond products, obviously left by climbers. Looking forward to frequenting this crag when I visit my family in California.
By sulli
From: Lake Tahoe, Ca
Feb 12, 2014
For anyone pondering, like I did, whether you can just throw down a pad and boulder these short lines, ... the answer is; not really. These lines, despite being short, are not boulder problems. If you climb here without a rope, these are free solos. The landings are sketchy, a ground fall here will likely result in something broken. And falling from some of the stuff further down into the canyon could result in one literally rolling into the river and being washed away.
Bring a rope and a partner :)

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