Buckets to Burbank 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Matt Cox, Dave Evans & Darrell Hensel, November 1975 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Just after the start. Photo by Neale Brain.
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Description Start just right of Ledges To Lawndale and climb the easiest path through the initial steep section (it's possible to climb direct at about 5.10+). Once established in the first horizontal (medium piece here) move up and right aiming for the solitary bolt. Clip the bolt, pass another horizontal (small cams/tricams work well) and then make easy moves on positive patina edges. The last few moves are heady and involve leaving the security of a small ledge to do a short bit of insecure smearing to the top. Bolted anchor on top as well as a cool natural thread which can be used and backed up with small gear if the bolts are missing.
This is a fairly good route with an interesting mix of steep positive climbing and insecure friction. This when combined with the other routes on the wall can provide a few hours of fun in the sun (or shade) if desired. Two stars out of five.
Location You'll find this route, the original on the wall, on the backside of the wall with Jane's Addiction and right of the route Ledges to Lawndale.
Protection bolt, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5"
Jeff approaching the scary delicate friction top o...
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Hall of Horrors West-side, West Face, "Buckets To ...
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BETA PHOTO: "Buckets to Burbank".
Photo by Blitzo.
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| Comments on Buckets to Burbank |
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By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
May 13, 2004
| This was another fun route. Don't have anything else to say about it.............. |
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.8+
| Scary runout, not for the weak at heart, I was lucky, my brother(rather boldly) lead the route whilst i followed. |
By brian gallagher
Nov 25, 2004
| this is a cool climb but not for a beginer at the 5.8 grade. the final gear placement is slightly less than bomber, and a fall from the exit moves would provide a nice ride and end with a need to change your shorts. i liked it. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 25, 2004
| I sent a young couple out to this area today and wonder if they are one in the same? But on another note, a lady friend and I were top roping the area today and as usual, the area and rock provided great fun. Ledges to Lawndale at 10a is another real fun route. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 R
| This is a fantastic climb but I've only done it as a TR. I can see in one of the pics, a gear placement in the first horizontal. Man, I can't find anything but flaring crack. Haven't figured out how to pro it but well worth doing as a TR.
The 10+ direct start is a sweet sequence on smooth holds with no feet.
Glad to see the R rating on MP for all these climbs. I was surprised that they're not listed R in the original guide. |
By Kris Spevak
Nov 20, 2007
| Three stars for the direct start, fun and interesting. |
By 72HW
Feb 11, 2008
| I concur - 3 stars with the direct start which feels like a few 10 moves to me. NOTE: Easily set up as a top rope by walking up the East end of the formation. Anchor is 2 bolts however, not the single mentioned above. |
By Eric Holden
From: Temecula, CA
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 R
| Two bolt Anchor that needs some sling extensions for TR. Great climb. Big fatty holds till about 10ft from the top, then finesse is required. Highly recommended! |
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