This is a fun climb & a great reason to haul some gear in. I find the exact location a bit hard to explain.... This is about 1/2 way to Captain America and on the right (like most routes). A short vertical crack that quickly mellows in angle and soon becomes a ledge that slopes up and to the right.
From this ledge, there is a great bolted line that climbs huecos up the steep wall. We were immediately attracted to the bolted line & then followed it down to the trad crack start. The .10d is (I'd guess) the bolted portion, but the crack down low earns some respect as well.
4 bolts for the upper portion, small / medium gear for the bottom crack.
Fun combination of sport and trad. The only downfall is that the line is so short. The crack can be adequately protected with a pink tri-cam and a #10 stopper. Hueco'ed headwall is enjoyable pocket-pulling.
By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH May 16, 2005 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Warning: If you're accustomed to climbing "5.10" at Cactus Cliff (Shelf Road), this route is burly. The crack start is solid trad 5.10 and the overhanging headwall is solid Penitente 5.10.
This is a classic for the area, in contention for "best 5.10" despite the big ledge. The crack makes it feel much longer than it is.
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 23, 2007 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
I looked at this route many times, because the upper portion's huecos looked so appealing but the lower crack looked hard. We finally got on it and I'm sorry I waited so long. The crack sucks up pro and offers some awesome hand jamming with good feet. A couple medium nuts, a #0.5 camalot and a #4 Camalot up high were more than enough. The upper section, with great huecos, is super fun.
This is an awesome crack. I saw it at the beginning of my stay at Penitente, and finally decided to get on it. The initial crack was excellent. I felt the crux of the crack to be a solid 5.9 because of the good feet. The overhanging headwall was also excellent. Great route overall!
Following the crack all the way to the top of the wall is a fun climb and really the "logical line" but while Im sure it was climbed long ago, I see no name for it anywhere. Possibly "Crack Slave"? Its a fun 5.9 requiring a range of gear and a variety of techniques. Probably best to set up a gear anchor and have the last climber move the anchor to Rocketman and lower from there.
FA Glenn Schuler & Kevin Mclaughlin. This was the first Penitente route I put up with Kevin the day he showed me the place. I had spent many hours the weeks prior hand drilling and cutting my super sweet, janky, red, homeboy hangers in anticipation of my trip. I was just a punk kid & didn't know any better, good times!