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Hawk's Nest
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Bucket Brigade 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: First Lead: Sheldon Smith
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 15, 2005
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Photo by Andrew Burr.

Description 

Locate an ugly-looking crack at the base of Hawks Nest, about fifty feet left of Happy Hunting Grounds. Now, look up and notice the tiered roof system. This is the route.

The climb starts on the crack, known as the Funnel (5.6), and much maligned due to its insecure climbing and poor pro. Rest assured: the Funnel is only about twenty feet long. Next, continue up easy, broken ledges, reminiscent of an alpine climb. This leads you to the base of the best part of the climb, an overhanging corner system.

Climb the corner, made easy by stemming and huge buckets (hence the name), past a relic piton if it is still there, and flop onto a ledge with a perfect view of the Lake. If you are looking for an adventure climb at the Lake, then look no further, and tie in for Bucket Brigade.


Protection 

Gear. Toproping is problematic due to the length and the convoluted nature of this part of the cliff.



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By Jesse Bond
Sep 12, 2005

The Funnel is a bit of a sketch fest and felt really insecure. Gotta love those akward low sections. Though Rob was able to protect it pretty well with a couple of hexes. The rest of this climb is a blast. Might want to use a little more caution as you get into the top sections. I know I grabbed at several rocks that were just itching to tear loose. So be careful.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Super long climb for the lake. 70m rope had hardly any rope left once the TR touched the ground.

Probably about a 115 foot climb.

By Ben Gleason
From: Madison, WI
Oct 17, 2013

In response to Paul's comment, I top roped it with a 60 a couple days ago. Just enough to tie the 8.