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9. The Dream Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 
Psychotic Realization T,S 
Ten Years Later T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Marks, Alan Pilgrim, Pete Henden July '92
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Anna C. on Oct 14, 2012

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Description 

A cool route through the big roof right of the Arete. 1 or 2 pitches.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.

Location 

Start 40 feet right of The Arete. Looking up you'll see a big roof capping a left-facing corner - that's your target.

Protection 

standard rack. Two bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top. Two raps will get you to the ground, or you can probably do it in one with a 70m.


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By Daniel Weisman
Apr 18, 2016

Not sure if we did this the right way, but really didn't enjoy the finish... Getting onto the face above the roof was pretty unpleasant because of a big loose flake that felt like it would come off if used as a hold. Anyone know if that's way off the route/normal/new?

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