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9. The Dream Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 
Psychotic Realization T,S 
Ten Years Later T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Marks, Alan Pilgrim, Pete Henden July '92
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Anna C. on Oct 14, 2012

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A cool route through the big roof right of the Arete. 1 or 2 pitches.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.


Start 40 feet right of The Arete. Looking up you'll see a big roof capping a left-facing corner - that's your target.


standard rack. Two bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top. Two raps will get you to the ground, or you can probably do it in one with a 70m.

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