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Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart 
Conn Route on Bell Tower 
Every Which Way But Kamps 
Every Which Way But Loose 
For Whom the Bell Tolls 
Kamps Crack 
Unsorted Routes:

Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart 

5.10+

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
FA: Paul Piana '90s
Submitted By: Eric Krantz on May 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Buckshot Eyes and a Purple Heart

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Description 

Following the directions to Bell Tower will leave you at the base of this climb. The climb starts on the left side of the yellow arrowhead. Bolt, piton, seam, bulge, 4 more bolts to the anchors. This route is a steep crystal pincher. There is a 2nd pitch but we didn't do it. I heard tell that it was terrible and not finished. Before you rope up, make sure you're wearing your shore leave wristwatch and cuban heels and that long-sleeved shirt with horses on the front, and please leave all your papers on the Ticonderoga.


Protection 

5-6 quickdraws w/ chain anchors



Photos of Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Fruh on Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart.  Notice the telltale mustard-yellow arrowhead.

Adam Fruh on Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart. N...


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By AhK
Dec 23, 2011
rating: 5.11

This thing is sweet! Stout, well protected, and not the usual Needles crystal pincher. Expect some big moves between good holds on steep rock. After the steepness, a pumpy jug haul leads to the chains. Get out and do it!

FA: Paul Piana, Paul Muehl, and Charlie Brumbaugh, 1990.

1 bolt and anchors replaced by Bergdale, McNabb and Hirsch on 10/2/11.