Come here for the multi-pitch sport climbing. Most routes are 2-4 pitches and 60-90m long. A few single pitch routes, especially on the summit crag. Not a huge crag in terms of quantity of routes, but worth a visit if you want to do some longer sport routes. Buck rock is a large fin of rock on the slopes of Mt Te Aroha, so all the climbs are really exposed and give great views down the side of the mountain. Not a crag for those scared of heights! South facing, so takes more than a day to dry off. Not the best crag in winter as morning fog can leave the crag wet and slippery all day. Great in summer, as it stays nice and shaded out of the intense sun. Completely different rock type (Andesite) from those found in Wharepapa South area.
From the small village of Te Aroha (about an hour drive from Wharepapa south), head south 2km down Te Aroha Gordon road, Turn left down Waiorangomai road and after 1km park at the old Waiorangomai settlement and gold mine. Buck rock is 40m walk up the hill from here through beautiful native bush. Take the high loop track for 20 minutes, then turn off the buck rock track for 20 more minutes. This should take you past the base of buck rock. A small cairn with red tape (easy to miss) marks the steep track up to the base of the crag. You should pass an old mine shaft on the way. The track meets the cliff next to the route "Première"
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buck Rock:
Featured Route For Buck Rock
Demo of Bosh 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b International : Oceania : ... : Main Cliff
Pitch 1Trend to the left for the first 2 bolts past a large scoop, then weave your way up the face for 8 more bolts to DBC belay.Pitch 2Much eaiser climbing, trending left up a groove and then left again around the roof and continue to anchors. 5 bolts....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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