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Buchaille Etive Mor

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Stob Dearg - Northeast Face 

Buchaille Etive Mor  


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Location: 56.64541, -4.91377 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 20, 2011
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The elegant Buachaille Etive Mor from the north, (...

Description 

"The Buchaille" as most know it, rises up as you head north across the Rannoch Moor from the east. An iconic Scottish mountain, it is actually a 7km long ridge with four tops, with most climbing concentrated on the northerly top, Stob Dearg (red peak).

The majority of climbing on Stob Dearg is on the North-East Face, which due to its aspect, does not get much sunshine. In addition, the approach to many of the routes involves a hike of about at least 1 hour and that's if you know where the route is located.

While the South-East Face does not have as much climbing, it is sunnier and has a much shorter approach (about 30 min).

Getting There 

To access the North-East Face, park on the south side of the A82 at Altnafeadh, about 1.8 miles west of the Glen Etive turn-off. There is also parking in a lay-by (shoulder of the road) about 100m further west up the A82 or down the rough dirt road/parking area near the river.

To access the South-East Face, drive down the single track Glen Etive road and park on the left about a mile in or at a long lay-by on the left (SE) side of the road about 1/2 a mile in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.6 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Buchaille Etive Mor

North Face Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Central Buttress North Face...
P1: Follow a series of shallow grooves to a ledgeP2: Move up left and follow the wide left-most crack on huge holds to belay at the top.P3: Scramble easily up to belay at the top right end of Heather LedgeP4: Move up a short way then traverse right around the edge on good holds and up a shallow cracked groove to underneath the overhung recess. Traverse right and drop down to belay on a ledge beneath a steep wall.P5: Climb the wall (crux) to gain a right-slanting shelf about 10 ft up. Go easily...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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