Buchaille Etive Mor Rock Climbing
The elegant Buachaille Etive Mor from the north, (...
"The Buchaille" as most know it, rises up as you head north across the Rannoch Moor from the east. An iconic Scottish mountain, it is actually a 7km long ridge with four tops, with most climbing concentrated on the northerly top, Stob Dearg (red peak).
The majority of climbing on Stob Dearg is on the North-East Face, which due to its aspect, does not get much sunshine. In addition, the approach to many of the routes involves a hike of about at least 1 hour and that's if you know where the route is located.
While the South-East Face does not have as much climbing, it is sunnier and has a much shorter approach (about 30 min).
To access the North-East Face, park on the south side of the A82 at Altnafeadh, about 1.8 miles west of the Glen Etive turn-off. There is also parking in a lay-by (shoulder of the road) about 100m further west up the A82 or down the rough dirt road/parking area near the river.
To access the South-East Face, drive down the single track Glen Etive road and park on the left about a mile in or at a long lay-by on the left (SE) side of the road about 1/2 a mile in.
Climbing Season For the Scotland area.
Weather station 12.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Buchaille Etive Mor
Agag's Groove 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Rannoch Wall
P1: Climb the crack above the block leading into the groove. Follow this up to a belay on the huge block at the base of a wide crack in the groove.P2: Continue up the easy ramp above to a large belay at a block or on a ledge with some old pins just above.P3: Continue up the same line to a sloping shelf leading out left onto the exposed nose. Move up the steep, cracked groove above on superb incut holds. Move left to a belay at a block.P4: Move left along the ledge and follow some fine, thin c...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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