"The Buchaille" as most know it, rises up as you head north across the Rannoch Moor from the east. An iconic Scottish mountain, it is actually a 7km long ridge with four tops, with most climbing concentrated on the northerly top, Stob Dearg (red peak).
The majority of climbing on Stob Dearg is on the North-East Face, which due to its aspect, does not get much sunshine. In addition, the approach to many of the routes involves a hike of about at least 1 hour and that's if you know where the route is located.
While the South-East Face does not have as much climbing, it is sunnier and has a much shorter approach (about 30 min).
To access the North-East Face, park on the south side of the A82 at Altnafeadh, about 1.8 miles west of the Glen Etive turn-off. There is also parking in a lay-by (shoulder of the road) about 100m further west up the A82 or down the rough dirt road/parking area near the river.
To access the South-East Face, drive down the single track Glen Etive road and park on the left about a mile in or at a long lay-by on the left (SE) side of the road about 1/2 a mile in.
Weather station 12.6 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Buchaille Etive Mor
North Face Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Central Buttress North Face...
P1: Follow a series of shallow grooves to a ledgeP2: Move up left and follow the wide left-most crack on huge holds to belay at the top.P3: Scramble easily up to belay at the top right end of Heather LedgeP4: Move up a short way then traverse right around the edge on good holds and up a shallow cracked groove to underneath the overhung recess. Traverse right and drop down to belay on a ledge beneath a steep wall.P5: Climb the wall (crux) to gain a right-slanting shelf about 10 ft up. Go easily...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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