Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Buchaille Etive Mor

Select Area...
Stob Dearg - Northeast Face 

Buchaille Etive Mor  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 56.64541, -4.91377 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 723
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 20, 2011
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

"The Buchaille" as most know it, rises up as you head north across the Rannoch Moor from the east. An iconic Scottish mountain, it is actually a 7km long ridge with four tops, with most climbing concentrated on the northerly top, Stob Dearg (red peak).

The majority of climbing on Stob Dearg is on the North-East Face, which due to its aspect, does not get much sunshine. In addition, the approach to many of the routes involves a hike of about at least 1 hour and that's if you know where the route is located.

While the South-East Face does not have as much climbing, it is sunnier and has a much shorter approach (about 30 min).

Getting There 

To access the North-East Face, park on the south side of the A82 at Altnafeadh, about 1.8 miles west of the Glen Etive turn-off. There is also parking in a lay-by (shoulder of the road) about 100m further west up the A82 or down the rough dirt road/parking area near the river.

To access the South-East Face, drive down the single track Glen Etive road and park on the left about a mile in or at a long lay-by on the left (SE) side of the road about 1/2 a mile in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.6 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Buchaille Etive Mor

North Face Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Central Buttress North Face...
P1: Follow a series of shallow grooves to a ledgeP2: Move up left and follow the wide left-most crack on huge holds to belay at the top.P3: Scramble easily up to belay at the top right end of Heather LedgeP4: Move up a short way then traverse right around the edge on good holds and up a shallow cracked groove to underneath the overhung recess. Traverse right and drop down to belay on a ledge beneath a steep wall.P5: Climb the wall (crux) to gain a right-slanting shelf about 10 ft up. Go easily...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Buchaille Etive Mor Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -