Bubbles  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 55 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Feb 25, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The excellent unknown route on the far right end o...

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

One of the best hard routes at LCC, and perhaps one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, featuring 5-star limestone, thought-provoking moves, a significant pump-factor and powerful cranks that don't let up till you clip the chains.

Begin 20 feet left of the Hermit's Cave. Fortunately this route's position avoids the culturally sensitive area to the right. Slopey pockets head up and right for two bolts, to a difficult sequence moving past the third bolt and a decent shake on interesting holds. A few more large pockets lead to the 4th bolt and a long reach to a good 1/2 inch edge just below the crux bulge, that offers a mediocre rest.

Sequential and powerful cranks on surprisingly thin holds leads to a pair of two-finger pockets just over the lip. Make two dynamic stabs to a pair of sloping dishes, bring up a foot, rock over and crank for the excellent mail slot. From here you can clip bolts 6 & 7. Rest as best you can here (taller folks may find this difficult) as one more desparete move to a good crimp guards the chains.

Location 

The first bolted route left of the Hermit's Cave. This is the only bolted route in the vicinity. About 100yds left (E) of the Violince Wall.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2BA.

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Mid-crux, at the double two-finger pockets, about ...	The unpleasant rest stance above the crux. Tall f...	Sticking the final desparate dyno for the good cri...