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Bubbles 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 25, 2008
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The excellent unknown route on the far right end o...

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the best hard routes at LCC, and perhaps one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, featuring 5-star limestone, thought-provoking moves, a significant pump-factor and powerful cranks that don't let up till you clip the chains.

Begin 20 feet left of the Hermit's Cave. Fortunately this route's position avoids the culturally sensitive area to the right. Slopey pockets head up and right for two bolts, to a difficult sequence moving past the third bolt and a decent shake on interesting holds. A few more large pockets lead to the 4th bolt and a long reach to a good 1/2 inch edge just below the crux bulge, that offers a mediocre rest.

Sequential and powerful cranks on surprisingly thin holds leads to a pair of two-finger pockets just over the lip. Make two dynamic stabs to a pair of sloping dishes, bring up a foot, rock over and crank for the excellent mail slot. From here you can clip bolts 6 & 7. Rest as best you can here (taller folks may find this difficult) as one more desparete move to a good crimp guards the chains.


Location 

The first bolted route left of the Hermit's Cave. This is the only bolted route in the vicinity. About 100yds left (E) of the Violince Wall.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2BA.



Photos of Bubbles Slideshow Add Photo
The unpleasant rest stance above the crux.  Tall folks may not get much rest here.
The unpleasant rest stance above the crux. Tall f...
Mid-crux, at the double two-finger pockets, about to stab for the first sloping dish.
Mid-crux, at the double two-finger pockets, about ...
Sticking the final desparate dyno for the good crimp at the chains.
Sticking the final desparate dyno for the good cri...
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 5, 2008

Name update: This route is actually Bubbles. Was informed as such along with a missing name on Fossil Wall. I mistakenly thought it was down at Beer wall. Sorry for the error.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jun 4, 2012

Nick Duttle logged the first ascent on Bubbles. 2005 See it on his 8a.nu card.