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The Bubble
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Left Edge" S,TR 
Bubble Boy S 
Catchy S 
Chimney T,TR 
Face T,TR 
Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 
Ladder, The S,TR 
Old Ladder Route T,TR 
Solar Power S 
West Face, The S 

Bubble Boy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jordie Morgan
Page Views: 2,011
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Tony Bubb gets the no-hands rest while leading Bub...

Description 

Climb out of the cave in the center of the wall. The first move is the tough part, and its very height dependent (though do-able if you're short). You have a slopey side-pull for your left hand, you're leaning way back, and you need to get up to the pocket which has a little feature in the bottom to help you pull until you can use the huge left side. Be resourceful. After that, a juggy overhanging arĂȘte awaits you, then once the climb gets less-than-vertical, it gets pretty run-out, though it's a lot easier. If you bypass the cave beneath the first bolt, it's a 10c.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains. If you're careful setting it up, you can toprope this, but you'll swing due to the overhang. Best idea is to clip the 1st bolt from the left side before climbing directly.


Photos of Bubble Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on the no-hands rest while on TR Bubble ...
Tony Bubb on the no-hands rest while on TR Bubble ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun route!
Fun route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on leads past the overhang on Bubble Boy...
Tony Bubb on leads past the overhang on Bubble Boy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb shows the undercling sequence of the sec...
Tony Bubb shows the undercling sequence of the sec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gwen Johnson follows through the second crux (reac...
Gwen Johnson follows through the second crux (reac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adal in the cave
Adal in the cave

Comments on Bubble Boy Add Comment
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By Eugenel
From: PA
Jun 7, 2015

Two routes in the bubbly portion of this and they are both bolted. The one on the topo is a 11b. It is bolted but if you miss the strongest move, you're going to take a crushing fall into a bubble (consider rebolting to adjust for the danger). The route to the left right of the ladder (also bolted) is bolted with better spacing (a 10d in some guide books). Both end at the same anchor. Another anchor extends 15 feet up after the ledge with a lot of exposure. From the ledge is a 10 ft climb to the next anchor 5 ft from the last anchor (top). Miss it and you'll hit the ledge then fall 10 ft from the ledge into a bubble. Suggest adding a bolt 5-7 ft up to ameliorate the danger.

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