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Tony Bubb gets the no-hands rest while leading Bub...
Climb out of the cave in the center of the wall. The first move is the tough part, and its very height dependent (though do-able if you're short). You have a slopey side-pull for your left hand, you're leaning way back, and you need to get up to the pocket which has a little feature in the bottom to help you pull until you can use the huge left side. Be resourceful. After that, a juggy overhanging arête awaits you, then once the climb gets less-than-vertical, it gets pretty run-out, though it's a lot easier. If you bypass the cave beneath the first bolt, it's a 10c.
5 bolts to chains. If you're careful setting it up, you can toprope this, but you'll swing due to the overhang. Best idea is to clip the 1st bolt from the left side before climbing directly.
Tony Bubb on the no-hands rest while on TR Bubble ...
Tony Bubb on leads past the overhang on Bubble Boy...
Tony Bubb shows the undercling sequence of the sec...
Gwen Johnson follows through the second crux (reac...
Jun 7, 2015
Two routes in the bubbly portion of this and they are both bolted. The one on the topo is a 11b. It is bolted but if you miss the strongest move, you're going to take a crushing fall into a bubble (consider rebolting to adjust for the danger). The route to the left right of the ladder (also bolted) is bolted with better spacing (a 10d in some guide books). Both end at the same anchor. Another anchor extends 15 feet up after the ledge with a lot of exposure. From the ledge is a 10 ft climb to the next anchor 5 ft from the last anchor (top). Miss it and you'll hit the ledge then fall 10 ft from the ledge into a bubble. Suggest adding a bolt 5-7 ft up to ameliorate the danger.