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(a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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Bubbas In Bondage 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c A2 [details]
FA: Jim Anglin 1983
Page Views: 1,410
Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Cody Peterson on P1 of Bubbas In Bondage

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An easier variation start to the original pinic lunch wall route. Very Steep!

P1 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11c? - Retro Bolted into a sport route this pitch is now MUCH easier once A3+ and very heads up, now it can go free semi easily. Follow bolts to a clean low angle diheadral. Move up diheadral on gear make a short free move to bomber belay.
P2 - A2 - Mostly all original bolts with the occasional sawed off pin placement. Very steep. Ends at belay 2 on original Picnic Lunch Wall route.

P3-P5 Follow original Picnic Lunch Wall route to the top.

Location 

To the right if the orignal route. Start atop blocks below massive routes.

Protection 

Same as Picnic Lunch Wall.


Photos of Bubbas In Bondage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody Peterson on  P2 of Bubbas In Bondage
Cody Peterson on P2 of Bubbas In Bondage
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody Peterson on P2 of Bubbas In Bondage
Cody Peterson on P2 of Bubbas In Bondage
Rock Climbing Photo: Bubbas In Bondage pitch 2.
Bubbas In Bondage pitch 2.

Comments on Bubbas In Bondage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ranger Matt
From: Yosemite NP
Dec 16, 2013

Bolts on 1st pitch very reachy if aiding this. I'm 6'4'' and I had trouble reaching.
1 60 barely raps off the 1st anchor.
Good pitch to practice aiding. Bring a mini cheat stick if you are short.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 20, 2015

Pitch 1 goes free at 11d. 7 bolts or so to a gear protected corner ( corner is 5.10). Bring nuts and small cams up to finger size.
By verticalworldtraveler
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 20, 2016

One of the few sub-12 routes I have found in the area that stays all dry in the rain, this is very much worth a go. Pulling the roof is just the beginning, the slab above is sustained and interesting moves. Upper dihedral is much easier, fun and more exposed than it appears from the ground. Used small offset nuts and a red C3, not much else.

The final bolt before the dihedral might be a tough clip for anyone not able to reach it from the good foot ledge (under 6'??) a long stiffened draw or one of those Kong Frogs might do the trick.

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