BT Express 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980 |
| Submitted By: | andjoely on May 31, 2009 |
| |
Tough, sustained stemming gets you through this on...
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Description Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox. Do it!
Location 15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.
Protection The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.
By s f
From: GA/CO
May 2, 2010
| aka Bong Toke Express |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 14, 2013
| Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 16, 2013
| My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line. |
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