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By Sam Latone
Mar 20, 2014

A buddy and I are planning on climbing at BSF the 29/30th of this month. The two of us are confident climbing most any 5.10/.10+ on gear, multipitch My observation is that other than Suicide Blonde/OR on the O&W wall...things get pretty heavy quickly at BSF.

We are really only intersted in free routes at this time. Although I may be convinced to do some clean aid.

My question to yall who have climbed in BSF is what are some other routes that we should check out while we are out there?

I have the Dixie Cragger for BSF but its not the best of guides...and the supossed topos on the cragger website are nowhere to be found.

We will be camping at the campground near the O&W bridge and will be doing Suicide Blonde and maybe checking out the Crack House....any other suggestions on multipitch routes that are worthwhile are much appreciated.

Thanks guys!
Sam


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By J. Amundsen
Mar 20, 2014

I have been down there a few times in the past two years. Suicide Blonde is a decent outing and a good first route to do - it was my first route at BSF and an early multi-pitch lead in my climbing career.

If you are looking for more free climbing at O&W, consider climbing the first two pitches of Vertigo. The first pitch is fun (I'd say it's about 5.9), and the second pitch has some stellar free climbing. Watch for loose rock on the first pitch - both for gear placements and for pulling on. The second pitch is money. Since it was originally aided, you will have a smattering of bolts and pins to clip. It's called 5.10 or 5.10+ in the book, but the last move on the pitch is quite difficult. It's well-protected.

You can make two rappels from below the Terrorarium Roof and be back on the ground. Otherwise, you're looking at a mix of free and aid to continue on for the next three pitches.

Looking up at the second pitch.
Looking up at the second pitch.


Aiding out the Terrorarium Roof
Aiding out the Terrorarium Roof


The best part about BSF is that you probably won't have to contend with much traffic. I've yet to climb there and see anyone else climbing on a route. Stay safe and be self-sufficient and have a good time!


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By nbrown
From western NC
Mar 20, 2014
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Go check out the crack house. It's only a few minutes away from O&W and has the highest concentration of free routes in that area.


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By NOFF
From Big South Fork, TN
Mar 20, 2014

Hey Sam,

The Nose to the left of the Crack House is moderate and fun, with good ledges. Also the route 911, on the 911 wall, is really good. It's pretty casual, and is 3 fun pitches. The crux is about half way up the third pitch, kind of a one move wonder deal. Once past that, the climbing is steep, but well protected, and offers a fantastic finish at the lip of the gorge.

Let me know if you need more beta, watch out for rattlesnakes at the base of the walls, it's about time for them to come out.


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By Sam Latone
Mar 22, 2014

Amazing replies guys thanks!! I will let y'all know how things go. Sounds like suicide blonde, the nose, 911, first two pitches of vertigo, and the crack house should keep us busy:) I'll let y'all know how it goes!

Thanks again!

Sam


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By Chris Watford
Apr 14, 2014

Hi Sam and all,
I am writing to tell everyone that a .pdf of the descriptions and topos for the long routes at the Big South Fork are now available for free download at:

www.dixiecragger.com/longroutes.pdf


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