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Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hor D'oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Shrieking Eels T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Skip to the End T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Brute Squad 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Devin Fin
Page Views: 4,299
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome offwidth that turns into a squeeze about half way up.

Location 

Right of Iocane Powder ~20 ft.

Protection 

A BD #5 and a couple #6's will get you half way there. Then big bros or run it out to the chains.


Photos of Brute Squad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: sidewinder on in.. put runners on small cams to re...
sidewinder on in.. put runners on small cams to re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Remember kids, Carhartts and long sleeves are aid....
Remember kids, Carhartts and long sleeves are aid....
Rock Climbing Photo: anchors set ..
anchors set ..
Rock Climbing Photo: the drag was bad ... but not that bad
the drag was bad ... but not that bad
Rock Climbing Photo: Thanks to. Bee for these pictures from the summer ...
Thanks to. Bee for these pictures from the summer ...
Rock Climbing Photo: FA work at the top
FA work at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: all B.S
all B.S
Rock Climbing Photo: Devin fits in the BRUTE SQUAD like a little bear!
Devin fits in the BRUTE SQUAD like a little bear!
Rock Climbing Photo: your on the Burte squad? YOUare the Brute squad!
your on the Burte squad? YOUare the Brute squad!
Rock Climbing Photo: Working from a horizontal green chook tube Tuff wo...
Working from a horizontal green chook tube Tuff wo...

Comments on Brute Squad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 14, 2010

i had a rad time at this wall this spring /summer and put up a number of routes. this was one of the coolest. half way up you can place a finger cam or two and gun it for the top... if you fit.
By Kent Pease
From: Littleton, Colorado
Jun 4, 2011

Good clean fun.

A clarification on gear: About 80% of the way up the climb there is a supplemental crack inside where you can get in gear ranging from #2 to #4 Camalots and maybe down to a #1 Camalot. Note that the upper most part of the crack where it exits onto the main face defines a block that could displace, so lower placements are better. I did not find any spots for finger sized gear.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Nov 8, 2012

Kent look at the FA picks .. and you will see one orange an one yellow tcu out right about half up. place runners on them to reduce the drag...

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