|Ice Cream Parlor
Stemming leads to a varied crack on the left wall. Cam placements can be found before reaching the first bolt. Follow the ramp and dihedral to the final sandy section below the anchor.
Just left of the 5.6 corner crack oh the left side of the slabs.
single rack camalots, .5- #3, 5 bolts, anchor
Brush Your Teeth 5.9+/5.10-
BETA PHOTO: Brush Your Teeth 5.9+
sandy bucher pulling down
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Feb 15, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
what a great route. in my humble opinion; probably the best route on the wall. way fun, varied moves. i used a small hex, a 3.5 (should have been a 3), and a .75 camalot before the first bolt. great vision on the fa. the clips are PERFECT. this thing had to be ground up. the rating is dead on. MUST DO if your up there. kudos to eric.
|By Scott Gallagher|
Apr 2, 2013
Very nice mixed route, particularly for beginning leaders. Requires a piece (or two) before bolts. Not too difficult, but maybe a bit reachy for vertically challenged climbers. IMHO, probably closer to 5.8...but supremely FUN!
| || 9yo daughter lovin' it |
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2013
Is the crux up high? I led all but about the last 15 feet of this climb (then traversed right to the 5.6 Corner anchors) and marked it as "5.7+ish" in my notes last October. It was definitely a fun natural line, and having its own anchors will make it much better.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Aug 22, 2013
This was such an amazing climb - my first Ice cream Parlor climb I believe! Everyone's beta is correct, use a .75 and 3 and you're golden. Have fun!