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Atlantis
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Unsorted Routes:

Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: cold in winter, fall, spr
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Erock on Mar 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Couple guys we met out there. Serious route, if y...

Description 

Start under a small roof and follow crack to the first bolt, then traverse right onto face to the next bolt on thin face, once past the first bolt get over the face and on to big ledge, the next bolt is up and left, climb up to the bolt with good holds, then traverse left to bulge with crack, it is probly a good idea to place a .4 alien here, because if you fall it is going to be an implesent whipper. Here is some beta, there is a huge, bomber hold over the bulge in the back, once you get that stand on the ledge and clip next bolt, Then climb face past 2 more bolts to chain rappel.


Location 

When coming into the Atlantis area it will be the first route on your left, look for big bulge with small crack.


Protection 

5 bolts, chains, .4 alien(optional)



Comments on Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008

FA's - Mark Harris & Jay Clark 3/93

By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

IMO this is not a safe route. The feature that forms the left side of the crack sounds hollow. I would not have been comfortable at all falling on the cam I placed in the crack. The movement on the route was great and I would have enjoyed it more if that bulge did not sound so hollow.

Anyone agree?

By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

One of the more scarier moments in my climbing career...yes, I agree!

By Ken Isaacson
May 25, 2010

My son led this yesterday and I followed on TR. There is a hollow sounding flake about a little more than 2/3 of the way up. I did pull up on the flake and it held. The crack to the right of the bulge is solid. There are plenty of good foot placements, pockets and edges all the way up. I think this route is easier than 5.9, although placing a cam in the crack next to the bulge looked awkward.

By brucy
Feb 19, 2011

We thought this to be a stupid and old style route. Bolt spacings are bogus and the idea of putting pro in the crack way out left between bolts 4 and 5- is even "more" bogus!

By Mark Mueller
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

This route is cool, probably more like a 5.8+ .. Lead without using any cam and I never felt insecure, however, a fall trying to pull that move could be painful. Will repeat.

By Edmund Kao
Apr 24, 2013

There is definite ground fall potential going for bolts 2 and 3. Falling while going for bolt 4 could result in a long fall onto the slab. Make sure your belayer is standing up and paying attention if you are leading this route. Placing the cam to protect the roof move up to bolt 4 is difficult for shorter climbers, as the best holds are some distance away. Our leader had to swing at it and place the cam dynamically.

I would not lead this route, but if someone with no fear of falling puts a top rope on it, it's a fun climb.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 31, 2013

I remember getting super scared a few years back on this... I haven't lead it since... yikes!